For the 2nd time this year (and our 3rd roadtrip in total), we are again in the Dolomites but this time in October... This region always attracts us, because there are so many beautiful things to see and do, we never get tired of it. You will tell us: "But you are Swiss, you also have beautiful mountains at home?" It's true, but there is something different in the Dolomites, this Austrian and Italian mix, the good Italian food, the good espresso whether you are in a nice hotel or in a high malga/hütte... and especially these grandiose landscapes between verticality of the rock and forests of fir trees, larches and pines... in short you will have understood... we love this region.

For this 3rd roadtrip, we wanted to come back to some spots we discovered in September 2019 and also discover new valleys and regions. As for the other articles, you will find the stages in the order of our roadtrip by indicating the nights in order to facilitate the creation of your trip. Below the map with the highlights. At the end of this article you will find the links to the other Dolomites roadtrips of September 2019 and June 2021.

-> Venezia [ 3 nights ]

Let's go for 2 weeks in Veneto and Alto Adige. To start our roadtrip direction Venezia! We had been there 10 years ago... but this city is so particular that each visit is always a total wonder.

In this article, we are not going to detail our visit, because we realize that during 3 days we just wandered in the city, passing from a small alley to another, in order to discover the less touristy corners of this city on the water. "Thanks" to the sanitary situation, there were less tourists and the city was pleasant.

VapOREtTo n°1

Tip... To do sightseeing on the water at a competitive price compared to the cab boat and the gondolas... We advise you to take the vaporetto n°1 at Piazza Roma, that is to say at the very end of the city, and if possible outside of rush hours, to find a seat at the front of the boat and to continue to the terminus on the Lido island. You will have crossed the entire Grand Canal and seen the Doge's Palace and the docks from the lagoon.... for only 7.50 Euros (valid for 75 minutes).

Rooftop Fondaco dei Tedeschi

If, like us, you are a fan of aerial views of the city... Go to the Rooftop of the chic Fondaco dei Tedeschi store (by the way, the inside of the store is also worth a visit). The access is free but you have to book the time slot because it's only accessible for 15 minutes and with a limited number of people... The Fondaco dei Tedeschi store is at the foot of the Rialto bridge (vaporetto Rialto or Mercato Rialto stop) and here is the link to make your booking.

ACqua Alta

We were lucky enough to witness the phenomenon of Acqua Alta... which has become rarer thanks to the MOSE dykes that have been built at the entrance of the bay of Venice. Of course, the Acqua Alta was not impressive, but it was powerful enough to flood almost the entire San Marco square, the lowest part of Venice. This allowed us to play with the reflections for our pictures with the Basilica and the Campanile.

Hôtel H10 Palazzo Canova

We stayed in this beautiful hotel super central ... a few meters from the Rialto. A beautiful address because everything is quickly accessible on foot whether it is the district of San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, il mercato del Rialto and il Cannaregio with its Ghetto. The decoration all in blue duck, blue sky and mustard ... makes the hotel modern while keeping a muffled and velvety aspect. A little extra, a rooftop terrace... think of booking to have a table in the first row with a view on the Grand Canal and the Rialto and a very pleasant inner courtyard for breakfast. The prices are not given but they often make offers except weekend.

-> Cortina D’ampezzo [ 3 Nights ]

Let's get down to business... after 2h30 of driving we are finally back in the Dolomites and the beautiful Cortina that we discovered in 2019. The thermal shock is however radical because from the sun of Venice to the snow of Cortina there was only one step. But we are ready to discover the surroundings of Cortina during 3 days!

Passo Giau

A pass that we had not had the opportunity to do 2 years ago! This time, it is under the snow and the cold of this beginning of October that we discover this pass and its magnificent landscapes. We are not going to hide it, the wind is strong and the cold is icy... but we are happy to be outside, to brave the elements!

Tre Cime di lavaredo

This morning, the weather is still quite cloudy... we decide to go to the 3 Cime di Lavaredo, which we had already done in 2019 under a bright sun... but today the weather is cloudier... but above all the snow has covered the summits... so we wanted to see again the emblem of the Dolomites under a white coat... For the description of the hike, I let you read the article from 2019 here.

CROda da Lago & Lago Federa

The sun is back... early but icy departure towards the Lago Federa. We park on the Passo Giau at the Rucurto parking. Then we follow the path n°437, then 434 until the lake... it's a dry climb, but the walk is beautiful through the larches with the view on the Cinque Torri, il Passo Giau, Cortina, il Sorapis, the Tofane and the 3 Cime in the background... Arrived at the lake, we take our time to take some pictures and play with the mirror effect with il Becco di Mezodi We eat outside at the Croda da Lago refuge in the sun... a real moment of pleasure... it changes from the weather of the 2 previous days... we enjoy it.We decide then to go up to Forcella Ambrizola via the path n°434 to get closer to the Becco of Mezodi and to realize the loop of the Croda da Lago via the path n°435. Arrived at the foot of the Becco of Mezodi the view opens on an altipiano... with a beautiful luminosity. Then we meet some Italian hikers who warn us about the practicability of the path n°435 because of the snow. Being well loaded with the photographic material and the tiredness at the level of the legs being nevertheless quite present, we decide to turn back and not to tempt the devil.

It's with regret that we go back down the same way... but a nice surprise is waiting for us, a magnificent light on the Lago de Federa even if completely in the shade, the evening sun illuminating the Becco de Mezodi giving an impressive mirror effect.

San Brite

Two years ago we had spotted it but this year... We anticipated and booked well in advance! What to say about this restaurant with 1 Michelin star... You have to go there to understand, but we were transported gustatively in a walk through the forest... a real trip! We enjoyed the moment without wanting to take pictures of the whole atmosphere... So you just have to discover by yourself, because we recommend it without any hesitation, if you are curious... Book a table at the San Brite.

Lodge ALverà

Back to the wonderful accommodation we discovered in 2019... the Dolomiti Lodge Alverà, a magnificent lodge with only 10 rooms, a breathtaking view of the Tofane, a modern but mountainous style & a divine restaurant... and this year's novelty: a SPA floor with sauna, hamam, resting area and a beautiful heated outdoor pool... welcome after the cold we had to face the first few days in Cortina.

-> San Candido [ 2 Nights ]

Second stage in the Dolomites the Val Pusteria. We had already been there in 2019 but in a short stay, so this time it will be 2 nights (it's really a minimum) to discover Prato Piazza, San Candido, Dobbiaco and rediscover the Lago di Braies. From here on we speak German, even if everyone understands Italian... We are no longer in Veneto, but in Süd Tyrol... Grüss Gott!

Prato Piazza

This morning departure for Prato Piazza, a place less known by tourists. We leave by car to reach the parking Prato Piazza! Be careful, this parking is not free (10 euros) and the places are limited... so come early. But don't panic, if the parking lot is full, you can leave the car at the Ponticello parking lot and take the shuttle.

Once parked... it is gone for a magnificent day... the cold stings but it is good to be outside! We take the wide path towards the Rifugio Vallandro... we discover little by little a pretty meadow with mini chalets, which make us think of the Alpe di Siusi in miniature. Arrived at the Rifugio Vallandro, we make a small stop to drink an espresso before beginning the ascent to the Monte Spiece through the pines, a pretty path of excursion n°34 that leaves directly behind the refuge.

Arrived at the top of the Monte Specie at 2300m an imposing sight on the 3 Cime di Lavaredo offers itself to us... we will take the time to make one 10h and to lie down in the meadows to contemplate the sight before going down again and to restore itself to the Almhütte Plätzwiese.

San CandidO

San Candido... for me one of the most charming villages of the Dolomites with its bell towers, its completely pedestrian center... it's a pity that we were there on a Sunday, because a lot of shops were closed... we'll come back when it's warmer to enjoy a spritz on the terrace.

Lago di Braies

We had already seen it in 2019, but we wanted to make some new images trying to be less cliché... so here we go! This morning it is really cold... the lake of Braies being literally surrounded by mountains. This year we will not linger on the north shore (the most touristic one) and we will make the tour of the lake and the little climb to Malga Foresta to eat a typical dish and enjoy the sun.

Hôtel joas

Discovered in 2019, our hotel is not in San Candido itself, but in Versciaco, a village not far away, super cute, with nice chalets at the foot of the ski slopes of the 3 Cime area. Joas Hotel Natura B&B, is modern but surrounded by nature, with a splendid view of the valley.

-> Alta BadiA [ 3 Nights ]

We left to discover the Alta Badia, after having bypassed Plan de Corones découvert en 2019, we enter the Valle Badia... at the beginning all tight, we felt a little oppressed, then arrived at the height of Badia village, the valley opens and it is a magnificent landscape that rises. We arrive in our accommodation Les Pizades (see below) with the setting sun and a magnificent luminosity on the mountains: Sas dal Crusc, Piz Lavarella & Piz Les Conturines.

Prà de ArmEntara

The beautiful luminosity of yesterday evening gave way to an overcast and threatening sky... it doesn't matter we get dressed and we go for a walk first in the villages of the surroundings: San Cassiano, La Villa & Badià... then thanks to Sabine's information (cf. below), we go to the parking of Furnacia to restore us 20 minutes later at Ranch da André. Once we were warmed up and fed, we went for a walk in the meadows of Armentara (paths 15A, 15, 18) which, once again, reminded us a little of the Alpe di Siusi... we finished our walk under the snowflakes and happy!

Pralongià

Today we decided to go and discover the high plateau of Pralongià... but in this period all the ski lifts are closed... 2 options: walk or rent a bike! We had difficulties to find a store that still rented bikes... but it's actually in the next village, in San Cassiano, that we found our happiness: at Lagaciò (the store is at the foot of the hotel of the same name... closed at the time of our visit, it must be a nice alternative address for those who want the service of a hotel).

So with our ebikes we go to the Pralongià plateau... first we climb towards Armentarola where we pass in front of "our place" the Pizades, then we climb via the path n°18, 24B, 24A until the highest point at 2109m at the Pralongià refuge. Unfortunately all the refuges on the plateau are closed, but it doesn't matter: picnic in the sun sheltered from the cold wind with a view on the Marmolada glacier which seems to fall on us while it is 2 valleys away! Then we walk towards the Bioch refuge (path n°23) and we go back down towards San Cassiano via path n°22 through the meadows with a view on the mountains. We are glad to have found ebikes because it allowed us to make a loop too long to do in one day by foot. At the end of the day we return our ebikes frozen but happy.

Les pizades

Les Pizades... a very nice discovery of this trip. Sabine offers us 3 apartments in the family farmhouse completely renovated and modern with all the amenities. The farm is located in Armentarola, surrounded by fields where their cows walk. Sabine offers us bread, eggs and fresh milk from the farm every morning and informs us daily about the weather, the opening/closing of the refuges, the Malgas, the ski lifts and the restaurants in the different villages of the Alta Badià. It is precious especially in October when many begin to close their doors for the break before the high winter season. We can only recommend this beautiful address in a quiet and well located area.

-> Plose [ 2 Nights ]

Let's go for the last stage of our road trip, but first we stop for an espresso and a brioche at Panificio Pasticceria Caffé Gasse in La Villa, before starting the climb of Passo delle Erbe.

Passo delle Erbe & Sass de Putia

Stop at the top of the Passo della Erbe after the many sharp turns... we decide to leave in the direction of Munt de Fornella and approach the Sas de Putia. Arrived in 20 minutes at the refuge, it's too early to eat a good typical dish especially after our brioche... so we leave on the path n°8A direction Forcela de Putia. The ascent is difficult but rewarding when we arrive at the top to see the Val Badia from another angle and get closer to the Odle de Eroes. This time we return to the Fornella refuge for a good piece of speck!

Rossalm sull’Plose

Here we are at our last stop...Rossalm, a refuge on the mount Plose... or rather a hotel... because this refuge has all the conveniences of a high hotel. We are conquered first of all by its location... facing the Odle Eores, Odle di Funes, and the Sas de Putia a breathtaking view... but also by the warm welcome of this team! Christoph and Werner took over the refuge just before the pandemic and despite the difficulties with all the health restrictions in Italy, they managed to stay the course and offer a warm and welcoming place. Besides, Werner will always spend a moment with you while his brother is in the kitchen, either to advise you on the activities of the Plose or just to chat with a drink in hand as if we have known each other for a long time. A little extra, their homemade thyme spritz recipe is so delicious it's a killer! You will have understood... a wonderful simple and warm address that we recommend without any restraint.

Monte GablER

Let's go for the ascent of Monte Gabler... We take the path n°14 "Via Panoramica Dolomiti" which bears its name well until the Gabler Alm then we take the path n°7 until the Mount Gabler at 2576m of altitude. The ascent is a bit difficult because we are loaded like donkeys... between photo equipment and a giant but delicious picnic prepared by the Rossalm! Arrived at the top it is a 360° view which opens all around us with an incredible sharpness today. We distinguish almost all the places visited during our 3 roadtrips: Alpe di Siusi, Seceda, Odle di Funes, Sas de Putia, Torri de Vajoet, Marmolada, Sasso Piato... and much more! We stay all afternoon on the Gabler mountain between nap, picnic, photo session and contemplation of the landscape! In short we enjoy our last afternoon here in front of the grandiose Dolomites.

Bressanone

We are repeating ourselves from the last articles of our travels in the Dolomites but... it's time to come down from the mountain... it's sad, it's with a heavy heart that we leave these magnificent mountains, but to come back again and again! We make a last stop in Bressanone... this small town is still a nice surprise with its pedestrian center, its cafés and its quiet atmosphere! We take the opportunity to do our last shopping for speck and before going back to Switzerland!

• uno Spritz, un pò di speck e uno strudel di mele per favore ! •

Find our articles on our previous roadtrips in the Dolomites

Here are the maps we used for this raodtrip, because the Lonely Planet Dolomiti (only in Italian) is really not detailed enough. The Tabacco maps are very precise and useful for off-road walks. They are easily obtainable in sport stores or kiosks.