This week-long road trip through British Cornwall, with a stopover in Dorset, was a real immersion in the charms of southern England. Shared with Tracy's parents, this adventure took us through iconic landscapes combining wild coastlines, green hills and picturesque villages. Each stop revealed welcoming pubs and local traditions to discover. Between moments of conviviality and exploration, this week offered us a lovely interlude in the rhythm of the English countryside.
-> Tintagel [1 night]
Port Isaac
When we arrived in Cornwall, we were greeted by a light English rain, adding an authentic touch to our first day of adventure. After collecting our car, we set off for our first stop: the charming village of Port Isaac. With its cobbled streets, whitewashed cottages and stunning views over a sheltered cove, Port Isaac instantly immersed us in the picturesque atmosphere of the region.
As we wandered around this village full of character, we couldn't help but think of Nelson, our Jack Russell puppy, who had stayed behind in Switzerland. Here, everything seems to have been thought of with dogs in mind: from the authorised beaches to the welcoming spaces in the pubs. It's undoubtedly a little paradise for our four-legged friends!
After a comforting break in a local pub, where we enjoyed a pint accompanied by typical dishes, we continued on to Port William, our stopover for the evening.
Port William
Situated on the edge of a cliff with an uninterrupted view of the sea, Port William is in a class of its own. The roar of the waves against the rocks, the salty smell in the air, and the wild scenery as far as the eye could see won us over straight away. The fading light added a dramatic touch to the landscape, and it was a real pleasure to end the first day sipping a good beer while admiring the raw beauty of the coast.
where to eat | where to sleep
Port William
Port William is a hotel-restaurant near Tintagel, offering pretty rooms with stunning sea views, pub food and a warm welcome.
-> Studland [2 nights]
Tintagel Castle
Our second day began early with a visit to Tintagel Castle, steeped in mystery and legend. This spectacular site, perched on a cliff overlooking the raging sea, is known as the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. Walking through the ruins and over the vertiginous bridge that links the two parts of the castle, we were fascinated by the history and the raw power of the landscape.
Topsham
After this historic immersion, we set off on a long stage towards Dorset. On the way, we stopped off in the charming town of Topsham. Our route then took us through Lyme Regis, a coastal town full of character, with its famous ‘Cobb’ (historic pier) and magnificent views of the Jurassic Coast. We arrived in Studland in the late afternoon, bathed in golden light... What a joy to be back in the sun.
old harry rocks
Our third day began with a delicious breakfast at The Pig on the Beach, which we enjoyed in the sunshine in the garden. It was the perfect way to set ourselves up for an active morning.
We then put on our walking boots to explore one of the region's natural gems: the Old Harry Rocks. This iconic site on the Jurassic coastline offers spectacular views of brilliant white chalk cliffs jutting out into a deep blue sea.
The path leading to the cliffs winds through lush green meadows. At the end, we took the time to admire these impressive rock formations, sculpted by the centuries, and to capture these magical moments with a drone, one of the highlights of our trip.
where to eat | where to sleep
The Pig on the Beach is a hotel and restaurant nestling in Studland, Dorset, with stunning views of the coast and the rock formations of Old Harry Rocks. The architecture is reminiscent of a gingerbread house, with pitched roofs and charming details that give it a fairytale feel. The establishment has a magnificent kitchen garden, a source of fresh ingredients for its restaurant, which serves delicious food using local produce. The warm atmosphere and attention to detail make this a haven for travellers seeking authenticity and comfort.
-> talland bay [1 nuit]
Leaving Dorset, we drove to Talland Bay in Cornwall. On the way, we discovered another of the region's treasures: the village of Looe.
Looe
Looe is a lively coastal village, divided in two by a river that meanders down to the sea. On one side are cobbled streets lined with colourful shops and local craftsmen; on the other, a picturesque little harbour where fishing boats bob gently. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and the air is filled with the delicious smells of freshly caught seafood. We treated ourselves to a seafood lunch, enjoying the bustle of the harbour and the friendly atmosphere at The Fish Market.
talland bay
After this gourmet break, we continued on to Talland Bay. Nestling in a peaceful cove, this destination offered us a very different atmosphere: calm and nature.
To round off the day, we took a stroll along the bay. The colours of the sunset over the water made for a magical moment of relaxation and contemplation. A wonderful way to end this leg of our journey.
Polperro
On our 5th day, we headed back to the Lizard Peninsula, but not before taking in all that the road had to offer. Our first stop was Polperro, a picturesque village with narrow streets and colourful cottages that seem to hang over the sea. A charming place to stroll around.
Heligans Gardens
We then visited Heligan Gardens, a veritable plant paradise. This historic garden, rediscovered after decades of neglect, offers a combination of lush gardens, Victorian glasshouses, giant plants and fascinating natural landscapes.
mevagissey
For lunch, we took a well-deserved break in Mevagissey, where we enjoyed some excellent fish and chips in a local restaurant. The fresh fish, accompanied by crispy golden chips, was a real delight.
St mawes
In the afternoon, we continued on to St Mawes. This small fishing village, situated on a peninsula, offers a splendid view over the bay. We took time to enjoy the magnificent light and take a few photos before catching the ferry to the Lizard Peninsula.
where to eat | where to sleep
The Talland Bay Hotel, in Porthallow, won us over with its exceptional location, offering stunning views over the bay and creating a tranquil and soothing atmosphere. The hotel also has beautiful gardens, perfect for a break in the fresh air, and is dog-friendly - Nelson, our Jack Russell, would have loved it! We enjoyed fine local cuisine in pleasant surroundings. However, we did have one minor problem with the hotel's decor, which seemed a little too busy and not necessarily to our taste. But all in all, the overall experience was very positive, thanks to the location and the warm welcome.
The Fisk Market in Looe is a resturant serving lovely seafood tapas.
-> Lizard Peninsula [3 nights]
On our penultimate day, we quickly explored Penzance, a charming town with a harbour atmosphere and lively little streets. We then had lunch in Newlyn, where fresh seafood was, as always, the order of the day (see Where to eat).
St Michel's Mount
The afternoon was devoted to discovering St Michael's Mount, a place that is both spectacular and steeped in history. This mount, crowned by a medieval castle and priory, has origins dating back to the VIIIᵉ century, when it was home to a Benedictine monastery linked to its French namesake, Mont-Saint-Michel. Over the centuries, it has played a military, religious and family role, becoming a private estate inhabited by the St Aubyn family for generations.
Reaching the island by boat, then returning on foot via the causeway discovered at low tide, added a touch of adventure to the visit. Once there, we explored the terraced gardens, the ramparts and the castle, which offers a panoramic view over the bay. A fascinating place, where history and legends intertwine.
St Ives
On our last day, we got off to a gentle start with a delicious scone in a charming little café in St Just, a convivial moment before taking the magnificent winding B3306 road. This route, with its views of the wild coastline, took us to St Ives, a town full of charm with its lively lanes, art galleries and seaside atmosphere. Although very touristy, St Ives is still a pleasure to explore.
At the end of the day, we headed back to the Lizard Peninsula to discover some iconic places: the peaceful Helford River, the spectacular Kynance Cove with its cliffs and white sandy beaches, and finally Lizard Point, the most southerly point in the UK, where the coastal scenery took our breath away one last time. A great way to round off this trip to British Cornwall.
helford river
kynance Cove
Lizard point
where to eat | where to sleep
Polurrian on the Lizard enjoys a superb location, with magnificent sea views and easy access to Polurrian Cove beach. The setting is perfect for relaxing and enjoying the natural beauty of the area. We found the hotel very pleasant, but a little too large for our taste. Although it offers some nice modern facilities, the general atmosphere lacked a bit of the more intimate friendliness we were looking for. In addition, the restaurant, although bright and with a beautiful view, did not live up to our expectations, either for dinner or breakfast. It was unfortunately a little disappointing.
During our visit to Newlyn, we were lucky enough to discover the Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar a truly charming place where fresh seafood is the order of the day. The restaurant, with its relaxed atmosphere and warm welcome, won us over straight away. We opted for several small portions, inspired by tapas, so that we could try a bit of everything. The produce was impeccably fresh, prepared with care and really bringing out the flavours of the sea. If you're passing through Newlyn, don't miss this culinary experience: it's a real taste journey into the heart of local seafood, in an informal but terribly pleasant setting. For dessert, head next door to Jelbert’s Ice cream, where you'll be treated to a delicious local ice cream.
Cintra Seafood Bar in St Ives is a charming and welcoming restaurant specialising in local seafood. With a friendly atmosphere and carefully prepared dishes, it's the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood while taking in the unique atmosphere of this coastal town.
For our last evening with the family, we chose the House on the Bay on the Lizard Peninsula. The setting, with its magnificent sea views, made the evening even more special. The warm, intimate atmosphere was perfect for enjoying a final meal together.
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