Charentes & Loire • Oysters & castles [FR] ENG
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In October, we hit the road to explore the Charente and the Loire Valley, between oyster farms and majestic châteaux. Each stop immersed us in the local history and culture, to the rhythm of the autumn colours. Come on board with us for a road trip full of wonderful discoveries!
→ MASSIGNAC [1 night]
Hotel Domaine des Etangs
Nestling in the Charente, the Domaine des Étangs is a five-star hotel where comfort blends with the beauty of the countryside. This vast 1,000-hectare estate offers rooms in a historic château where each decoration is themed around a planet (we stayed in the Mars room), and farmhouses surrounded by ponds, gardens and works of art. Ideal for an unforgettable retreat in the heart of nature, the Domaine des Étangs is as appealing for its discreet luxury as for its intimate atmosphere. As soon as we arrived, we regretted that we had only planned to spend one night here...
We took advantage of the rain-free afternoon to explore the estate by bike and punt before enjoying the interior of the château with its many lounges, comic book reading room and games room, which gave us an atmosphere worthy of Hogwards.
Before you arrive, don't forget to book a table at their Dyades restaurant. All the freshest seasonal produce is harvested daily from their organic spiral garden on the estate, right next to the château.
→ LA TREMBLADE [2 nights]
We left the splendid Domaine des Étangs in the pouring rain, ready to discover the landscapes of the Charente and the Atlantic coast.
First stop: the village of Talmont-sur-Gironde, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Perched on a cliff, it is famous for its Romanesque church of Sainte-Radegonde, which seems to defy the ocean, and its cobbled streets lined with hollyhocks. Despite the wind, we were charmed by its timeless atmosphere.
Talmont-sur-Gironde
Grottes du Regulus
We continued on to the mysterious caves of Régulus, carved into the cliffs of Meschers-sur-Gironde. Once used as shelters and troglodyte dwellings, they bear witness to a fascinating history. However, the storm forced us to return to the comfort of our car before continuing.
Phare de la Courbe
Fortunately, the skies cleared a little for our stopover at the Phare de la Courbe, an emblematic monument at the entrance to the Gironde estuary. We were able to climb to the top of the 300 steps in a retro-blue décor that made our heads spin... but what a reward: a spectacular view of the Coubre forest, endless beaches and the restless ocean.
Île d’Oléron
After our 1st night in La Tremblade, and with the sun back in the sky, we started the day by strolling through the charming daily market, where the colourful stalls were full of fresh local produce before heading off to the island of Oléron. We crossed the picturesque Baudissière channel, famous for its colourful oyster huts. Unfortunately, many of them were already closed on this rainy October day, but that didn't stop us enjoying the place.
Fortunately, we found a pleasant lunch at Fort Royer, where we enjoyed oysters and mussels. After catching a glimpse of the famous Fort Boyard from the coast, we reached the Pointe de Chassiron. Although the lighthouse is aesthetically beautiful, we weren't totally enchanted by this stage. Perhaps it was the lack of atmosphere we were hoping for? A rewarding day nonetheless, but not necessarily our favourite of the trip.
la Tremblade
To round off the day, we explored La Tremblade, a renowned oyster-farming village where maritime activity and local traditions are omnipresent. We took the opportunity to fly our drone over the oyster beds, the shallow basins used to refine the oysters. These ponds, fed by seawater, play a key role in maturing the oysters, giving them their delicate texture and distinctive iodised taste. The landscapes of the oyster beds, bathed in golden evening light, were simply magnificent from the air - a great way to end the day.
Where to eat | where to stay
For these two nights, we had the pleasure of staying at Maison L’Ostréale, a charming bed and breakfast. Isabelle and Frédéric welcomed us with a warmth and kindness that immediately put us at ease. The tastefully decorated house offers a peaceful and refined setting. A special mention goes to the absolutely delicious breakfast, made with fresh, tasty local produce. An address we recommend without hesitation!
For oyster lovers, there are two exceptional addresses in the region: La Boutique Gillardeau, an iconic place to savour the prestigious Gillardeau oysters, which combine refinement and savoir-faire, or Chez Memlou, a picturesque shack on the Baudissière channel, perfect for an authentic local experience.
nother address well worth a visit is Manger sur la Plage,he restaurant of the Dormir sur la Plage hotel. Situated in an exceptional setting overlooking the ocean, this restaurant offers tasty cuisine using fresh, local produce, all in an elegant, relaxed atmosphere. The perfect place for a meal with a view after a day of exploring.
→ ÎLE DE RÉ [3 nights]
The next day, we headed for the famous Ile de Ré, but not without a stopover in La Rochelle. This port city charmed us with its lively old port, its emblematic medieval towers and its narrow streets lined with arcades. A perfect break to soak up the maritime atmosphere before continuing on our way. La Rochelle's covered market is a must for lovers of fresh, local produce. This is where Marc treated himself to huîtres Breuil, a real iodine delight. These oysters, renowned for their finesse and unique flavour, are a perfect reflection of the region's maritime terroir. A convivial, gourmet experience that's well worth the diversions!
Ars-en-Ré
We set down our bags in Ars-en-Ré, at the foot of its emblematic bell tower that has guided sailors for centuries. From our first explorations, the island won us over with its picturesque charm and lively villages. Unlike the island of Oléron, the atmosphere here is more vibrant, with colourful markets, lively harbours and narrow streets lined with white houses with pastel-coloured shutters. This flat island, ideal for cycling, invites you to slow down and enjoy every moment.
Phare des baleines
Situated at the tip of the island, this historic lighthouse offers breathtaking views from the top of its 257 steps.
Plage du Founeau
A long stretch of fine sand bordered by pine trees, ideal for a peaceful stroll. At this time of year, the waves give the place an authentic character.
Salt pans
A symbol of the island, these shimmering geometric expanses tell the story of the ancestral trade of the saunier. It's a fascinating place to visit by bike and learn all about the local know-how.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré
With its Vauban fortifications and bustling port, this town is bursting with charm. Its cobbled streets and boutiques invite you to stroll and shop. Meet up at the end of the day for a lively aperitif on one of the port's terraces.
La Flotte
Listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, this authentic market town boasts a medieval market, narrow flower-lined streets and a friendly harbour.
Where to eat | where to stay
We stayed at Sénéchal, a hotel in the heart of Ars-en-Ré that combines charm and refinement. This authentic hotel will win you over with its tasteful decor and soothing atmosphere. The tastefully appointed rooms offer perfect comfort after a day's exploring. An ideal place to make the most of the island in an elegant and intimate atmosphere.
→ MARAIS POITEVIN [1 night]
After leaving the shores of the Atlantic, we head for a completely different atmosphere: that of the Marais Poitevin, also known as the ‘Green Venice’. With its winding canals, lush green landscapes and small villages, this region offers a peaceful, bucolic break. We can't wait to explore its hidden treasures and immerse ourselves in the authenticity of this unique natural heritage.
We really wanted to explore the Marais Poitevin by boat from Coulon, but with the capricious weather, all the hire companies had closed up shop. A little disappointed, we settled for a good crêpe to save the evening. The next day, our host saved the day by hiring us his boat. And then it was magic: we found ourselves alone in the middle of the canals, in absolute peace and quiet. We finished our trip just in time before a huge downpour. A memorable experience, despite the unexpected!
Where to eat | where to stay
N We stayed at Trèfle d’Eau, a charming guest house in the heart of the Marais Poitevin. The warm welcome, peaceful setting and carefully decorated rooms made it a lovely place to spend the night. An ideal address for making the most of the ‘Green Venice’.
→ CHENONCEAU [3 nights]
Château de Chenonceau
We put down our bags for 3 nights at the Auberge du Bon Laboureur, located right next to the magnificent Château de Chenonceau. Before we arrived, a light broke through the mist, and we took advantage of this mystical moment to go for a walk. The mist enveloped the Cher, creating a magical atmosphere. I've put the Google coordinates here to help you find this place and come face to face with this château.
The next morning we set off to explore the interior of the Château de Chenonceau, nicknamed the ‘Château des Dames’ because of the women who have shaped its history. Built in the 16th century, it was given to Diane de Poitiers, the favourite of Henry II, who transformed the gardens and added its emblematic bridge. After the king's death, Catherine de Médicis, Henri II's wife, reclaimed and enlarged it, transforming the bridge into a gallery. Louise de Lorraine, widow of Henri III, then lived there in mourning. Each woman left a unique mark. This Renaissance château is distinguished by its unique architecture, with its majestic arches spanning the Cher River. Inside, you'll find richly decorated salons, works of art and gardens.
Amboise & le Clos Lucé
L’après-midi, nous découvrons la ville d’Amboise et son château, perché sur un promontoire offrant une vue imprenable sur la Loire. Ce lieu chargé d’histoire a abrité de nombreux rois et conserve une atmosphère royale unique.
We continue with a visit to Le Clos Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. Between his inventions, his drawings and his workshop, we plunge into the fascinating world of this Renaissance genius.
Beauvale zoo
On our 2nd day, and in the pouring rain, we decided to take a trip to Beauval Zoo, about 30 minutes away. Despite the bad weather, the experience was almost beautiful: the park was deserted, and we had the impression of having this immense place all to ourselves. This zoo is one of the most famous in Europe, renowned for its exceptional collection of rare and endangered species. It is home to more than 35,000 animals, including giant pandas - a real speciality, as few zoos in the world can accommodate them. The park is huge, with habitats recreated for the comfort of the animals, ranging from the African savannah to Asian jungles and giant aviaries. A great day out, despite the capricious weather!
Where to eat | where to stay
The Auberge du Bon Laboureur, just a stone's throw from the Château de Chenonceau, is a charming hotel combining elegance and comfort in a warm atmosphere. With its English-style inn, refined rooms and gourmet restaurant, we enjoyed taking refuge here when the weather was bad.
→ CHAMBORD [2 nights]
Château de Chaumont
It's off to our last stop on this raodtrip. Our first stop is at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a jewel overlooking the Loire. This castle, with its medieval and Renaissance architecture, seduced us with its elegant towers and historic atmosphere. Its gardens, famous for their International Garden Festival, are a fine example of eccentric creativity.
Château de Chambord
After a break in Blois, a charming town steeped in royal history, we end the day at the Château de Chambord, impressive in its grandeur and architectural detail.
Staying just a stone's throw from the Château de Chambord, we had the privilege of admiring it in all its guises. We explored the château and its double-revolution staircase, a masterpiece by Leonardo da Vinci. We also cycled around the estate to enjoy the natural surroundings. Marc set off at dawn to try and spot the deer. Although he wasn't so lucky, hearing the bellowing in the quiet of the morning will remain a beautiful memory.
Where to eat | where to stay
We stayed at the Relais de Chambord, , a hotel nestling right opposite the château, offering spectacular views of this iconic monument. With its design blending authentic charm and modernity, this place combines comfort and elegance in a peaceful atmosphere. Its privileged location allowed us to take full advantage of the beauty of the estate at any time of day. The hotel also offers bike hire and can equip you with boots and binoculars for a deer-spotting adventure on the Chambord estate.
• So, are you ready to live your own adventure? •
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