Charentes & Loire • Oysters & castles [FR] ENG

FR | ENG

In October, we hit the road to explore the Charente and the Loire Valley, between oyster farms and majestic châteaux. Each stop immersed us in the local history and culture, to the rhythm of the autumn colours. Come on board with us for a road trip full of wonderful discoveries!

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→ MASSIGNAC [1 night]

Hotel Domaine des Etangs

Nestling in the Charente, the Domaine des Étangs is a five-star hotel where comfort blends with the beauty of the countryside. This vast 1,000-hectare estate offers rooms in a historic château where each decoration is themed around a planet (we stayed in the Mars room), and farmhouses surrounded by ponds, gardens and works of art. Ideal for an unforgettable retreat in the heart of nature, the Domaine des Étangs is as appealing for its discreet luxury as for its intimate atmosphere. As soon as we arrived, we regretted that we had only planned to spend one night here...

We took advantage of the rain-free afternoon to explore the estate by bike and punt before enjoying the interior of the château with its many lounges, comic book reading room and games room, which gave us an atmosphere worthy of Hogwards.

Before you arrive, don't forget to book a table at their Dyades restaurant. All the freshest seasonal produce is harvested daily from their organic spiral garden on the estate, right next to the château.

→ LA TREMBLADE [2 nights]

We left the splendid Domaine des Étangs in the pouring rain, ready to discover the landscapes of the Charente and the Atlantic coast.

First stop: the village of Talmont-sur-Gironde, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Perched on a cliff, it is famous for its Romanesque church of Sainte-Radegonde, which seems to defy the ocean, and its cobbled streets lined with hollyhocks. Despite the wind, we were charmed by its timeless atmosphere.

Talmont-sur-Gironde

Grottes du Regulus

We continued on to the mysterious caves of Régulus, carved into the cliffs of Meschers-sur-Gironde. Once used as shelters and troglodyte dwellings, they bear witness to a fascinating history. However, the storm forced us to return to the comfort of our car before continuing.

Phare de la Courbe

Fortunately, the skies cleared a little for our stopover at the Phare de la Courbe, an emblematic monument at the entrance to the Gironde estuary. We were able to climb to the top of the 300 steps in a retro-blue décor that made our heads spin... but what a reward: a spectacular view of the Coubre forest, endless beaches and the restless ocean.

Île d’Oléron

After our 1st night in La Tremblade, and with the sun back in the sky, we started the day by strolling through the charming daily market, where the colourful stalls were full of fresh local produce before heading off to the island of Oléron. We crossed the picturesque Baudissière channel, famous for its colourful oyster huts. Unfortunately, many of them were already closed on this rainy October day, but that didn't stop us enjoying the place.

Fortunately, we found a pleasant lunch at Fort Royer, where we enjoyed oysters and mussels. After catching a glimpse of the famous Fort Boyard from the coast, we reached the Pointe de Chassiron. Although the lighthouse is aesthetically beautiful, we weren't totally enchanted by this stage. Perhaps it was the lack of atmosphere we were hoping for? A rewarding day nonetheless, but not necessarily our favourite of the trip.

la Tremblade

To round off the day, we explored La Tremblade, a renowned oyster-farming village where maritime activity and local traditions are omnipresent. We took the opportunity to fly our drone over the oyster beds, the shallow basins used to refine the oysters. These ponds, fed by seawater, play a key role in maturing the oysters, giving them their delicate texture and distinctive iodised taste. The landscapes of the oyster beds, bathed in golden evening light, were simply magnificent from the air - a great way to end the day.

Where to eat | where to stay

For these two nights, we had the pleasure of staying at Maison L’Ostréale, a charming bed and breakfast. Isabelle and Frédéric welcomed us with a warmth and kindness that immediately put us at ease. The tastefully decorated house offers a peaceful and refined setting. A special mention goes to the absolutely delicious breakfast, made with fresh, tasty local produce. An address we recommend without hesitation!

For oyster lovers, there are two exceptional addresses in the region: La Boutique Gillardeau, an iconic place to savour the prestigious Gillardeau oysters, which combine refinement and savoir-faire, or Chez Memlou, a picturesque shack on the Baudissière channel, perfect for an authentic local experience.

nother address well worth a visit is Manger sur la Plage,he restaurant of the Dormir sur la Plage hotel. Situated in an exceptional setting overlooking the ocean, this restaurant offers tasty cuisine using fresh, local produce, all in an elegant, relaxed atmosphere. The perfect place for a meal with a view after a day of exploring.

→ ÎLE DE RÉ [3 nights]

The next day, we headed for the famous Ile de Ré, but not without a stopover in La Rochelle. This port city charmed us with its lively old port, its emblematic medieval towers and its narrow streets lined with arcades. A perfect break to soak up the maritime atmosphere before continuing on our way. La Rochelle's covered market is a must for lovers of fresh, local produce. This is where Marc treated himself to huîtres Breuil, a real iodine delight. These oysters, renowned for their finesse and unique flavour, are a perfect reflection of the region's maritime terroir. A convivial, gourmet experience that's well worth the diversions!

Ars-en-Ré

We set down our bags in Ars-en-Ré, at the foot of its emblematic bell tower that has guided sailors for centuries. From our first explorations, the island won us over with its picturesque charm and lively villages. Unlike the island of Oléron, the atmosphere here is more vibrant, with colourful markets, lively harbours and narrow streets lined with white houses with pastel-coloured shutters. This flat island, ideal for cycling, invites you to slow down and enjoy every moment.

Phare des baleines

Situated at the tip of the island, this historic lighthouse offers breathtaking views from the top of its 257 steps.

Plage du Founeau

A long stretch of fine sand bordered by pine trees, ideal for a peaceful stroll. At this time of year, the waves give the place an authentic character.

Salt pans

A symbol of the island, these shimmering geometric expanses tell the story of the ancestral trade of the saunier. It's a fascinating place to visit by bike and learn all about the local know-how.

Saint-Martin-de-Ré

With its Vauban fortifications and bustling port, this town is bursting with charm. Its cobbled streets and boutiques invite you to stroll and shop. Meet up at the end of the day for a lively aperitif on one of the port's terraces.

La Flotte

Listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, this authentic market town boasts a medieval market, narrow flower-lined streets and a friendly harbour.

Where to eat | where to stay

We stayed at Sénéchal, a hotel in the heart of Ars-en-Ré that combines charm and refinement. This authentic hotel will win you over with its tasteful decor and soothing atmosphere. The tastefully appointed rooms offer perfect comfort after a day's exploring. An ideal place to make the most of the island in an elegant and intimate atmosphere.

→ MARAIS POITEVIN [1 night]

After leaving the shores of the Atlantic, we head for a completely different atmosphere: that of the Marais Poitevin, also known as the ‘Green Venice’. With its winding canals, lush green landscapes and small villages, this region offers a peaceful, bucolic break. We can't wait to explore its hidden treasures and immerse ourselves in the authenticity of this unique natural heritage.

We really wanted to explore the Marais Poitevin by boat from Coulon, but with the capricious weather, all the hire companies had closed up shop. A little disappointed, we settled for a good crêpe to save the evening. The next day, our host saved the day by hiring us his boat. And then it was magic: we found ourselves alone in the middle of the canals, in absolute peace and quiet. We finished our trip just in time before a huge downpour. A memorable experience, despite the unexpected!

Where to eat | where to stay

N We stayed at Trèfle d’Eau, a charming guest house in the heart of the Marais Poitevin. The warm welcome, peaceful setting and carefully decorated rooms made it a lovely place to spend the night. An ideal address for making the most of the ‘Green Venice’.

→ CHENONCEAU [3 nights]

Château de Chenonceau

We put down our bags for 3 nights at the Auberge du Bon Laboureur, located right next to the magnificent Château de Chenonceau. Before we arrived, a light broke through the mist, and we took advantage of this mystical moment to go for a walk. The mist enveloped the Cher, creating a magical atmosphere. I've put the Google coordinates here to help you find this place and come face to face with this château.

The next morning we set off to explore the interior of the Château de Chenonceau, nicknamed the ‘Château des Dames’ because of the women who have shaped its history. Built in the 16th century, it was given to Diane de Poitiers, the favourite of Henry II, who transformed the gardens and added its emblematic bridge. After the king's death, Catherine de Médicis, Henri II's wife, reclaimed and enlarged it, transforming the bridge into a gallery. Louise de Lorraine, widow of Henri III, then lived there in mourning. Each woman left a unique mark. This Renaissance château is distinguished by its unique architecture, with its majestic arches spanning the Cher River. Inside, you'll find richly decorated salons, works of art and gardens.

Amboise & le Clos Lucé

L’après-midi, nous découvrons la ville d’Amboise et son château, perché sur un promontoire offrant une vue imprenable sur la Loire. Ce lieu chargé d’histoire a abrité de nombreux rois et conserve une atmosphère royale unique.

We continue with a visit to Le Clos Lucé, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. Between his inventions, his drawings and his workshop, we plunge into the fascinating world of this Renaissance genius.

Beauvale zoo

On our 2nd day, and in the pouring rain, we decided to take a trip to Beauval Zoo, about 30 minutes away. Despite the bad weather, the experience was almost beautiful: the park was deserted, and we had the impression of having this immense place all to ourselves. This zoo is one of the most famous in Europe, renowned for its exceptional collection of rare and endangered species. It is home to more than 35,000 animals, including giant pandas - a real speciality, as few zoos in the world can accommodate them. The park is huge, with habitats recreated for the comfort of the animals, ranging from the African savannah to Asian jungles and giant aviaries. A great day out, despite the capricious weather!

Where to eat | where to stay

The Auberge du Bon Laboureur, just a stone's throw from the Château de Chenonceau, is a charming hotel combining elegance and comfort in a warm atmosphere. With its English-style inn, refined rooms and gourmet restaurant, we enjoyed taking refuge here when the weather was bad.

→ CHAMBORD [2 nights]

Château de Chaumont

It's off to our last stop on this raodtrip. Our first stop is at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a jewel overlooking the Loire. This castle, with its medieval and Renaissance architecture, seduced us with its elegant towers and historic atmosphere. Its gardens, famous for their International Garden Festival, are a fine example of eccentric creativity.

Château de Chambord

After a break in Blois, a charming town steeped in royal history, we end the day at the Château de Chambord, impressive in its grandeur and architectural detail.

Staying just a stone's throw from the Château de Chambord, we had the privilege of admiring it in all its guises. We explored the château and its double-revolution staircase, a masterpiece by Leonardo da Vinci. We also cycled around the estate to enjoy the natural surroundings. Marc set off at dawn to try and spot the deer. Although he wasn't so lucky, hearing the bellowing in the quiet of the morning will remain a beautiful memory.

Where to eat | where to stay

We stayed at the Relais de Chambord, , a hotel nestling right opposite the château, offering spectacular views of this iconic monument. With its design blending authentic charm and modernity, this place combines comfort and elegance in a peaceful atmosphere. Its privileged location allowed us to take full advantage of the beauty of the estate at any time of day. The hotel also offers bike hire and can equip you with boots and binoculars for a deer-spotting adventure on the Chambord estate.

• So, are you ready to live your own adventure? •

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Japan • In the land of the rising sun [Japan] ENG

FR | ENG

Welcome to our exciting adventure through the heart of Japan, an experience that combines the rigour of Japanese rail travel with the freedom of a road trip. Immerse yourself in this first Japanese escapade, steeped in culture, architecture and breathtaking scenery. Our itinerary begins in Osaka, continues to Koyasan, Kyoto and Kanazawa, then ventures into the Japanese Alps, before ending in Tokyo, with a day dedicated to Mount Fuji.

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→ OSAKA [ 2 nights ]

Our journey begins in Osaka, a dynamic city where tradition meets modernity. The decision to start our itinerary in Osaka is to integrate the jetlag 'gently' and keep the Tokyo leg to the end of the trip to make the most of it.

Umeda sky building

After a short break at the hotel and a first visit to the station to exchange and book all our tickets, we headed for the Umeda Sky Building. You're getting to know us now, and we're particularly fond of getting a bit of height, especially in sprawling cities like this. You climb up in transparent lifts, then take a double suspended escalator to reach the outside walkway... an architectural feat offering panoramic views of the illuminated city.

Osaka Castle

On our first morning in Osaka, we start with a trip to Osaka Castle. The peace and quiet of the castle, surrounded by a fortress, contrasts with the hustle and bustle of the surrounding city. We decided not to queue to visit the interior and to continue exploring the city.

America mura

In the afternoon, we set off to discover America Mura, a vibrant district that exudes modernity and eccentricity. We lost ourselves in its eclectic alleyways and immersed ourselves in Japan's young, contemporary culture. A discreet hype centre, even underground, the district takes its name from a bygone era when its shops imported fashion exclusively from the United States.

Dotonbori

As night fell, we immersed ourselves in Dotonbori, an iconic district of Osaka that really comes alive when the sun goes down. The multicoloured neon lights that illuminate the riverbanks are lined with street food stalls offering a variety of local flavours. We couldn't pass by without trying the takoyaki, dumplings filled with octopus, a must-try local speciality.

Where to eat | where to stay in osaka

Mitsui Garden Hotel Osaka Premier is a charming little business hotel with all the comforts of home and a delicious typical Japanese breakfast. It is located in the quiet district of Naka-No-Shima, close to the Osaka National Art Museum (which we unfortunately didn't have time to visit) and a short walk from the Umeda and Kita districts.

To immerse ourselves directly in the Japanese atmosphere, we tried out two typical restaurants: an Izakaya and in a small restaurant on Yotsubashi-suji. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the latter on Google to give you the exact address. In any case, we let ourselves be guided by the waiters and the images, because nothing here is translated and the menu is often handwritten. Unfortunately, Google Translate wasn't much help.

We were astonished to discover that the Japanese are fond of good coffee, a discovery that would certainly have delighted our friends Nemrod & Séverine. It was at the little Café Lilo, located above Strawberry Mania, a chain of shops dedicated to strawberry sweets in all their forms, that we tasted our first Japanese coffee. Here, there's no need to be in a hurry, just savour the time and the coffee.

→ KOYA-SAN [ 1 night ]

It's not without difficulty that we get up, still a little jetlagged, ready to board the train to Koya-san from Namba-Osaka station. Please note that a special ticket is required to reach Koyasan, which is not covered by the JR Pass. For more information, visit the Nankai website.

Koyasan, perched high in the mountains of Wakayama prefecture, is a place steeped in spirituality. Our journey to this sacred site began with a train ride through the suburbs of Osaka, before the houses gave way to a thick, lush forest. The journey ends with a funicular ride up the hill and a short bus ride to our accommodation.

Koyasan is the cradle of esoteric Japanese Buddhism, home to a series of Buddhist temples and the Oku-no-in cemetery, where the spirits of the dead rest in majestic silence.

We chose to stay in a shukubo, a temple where hospitality and spirituality come together. There, in traditional rooms, we discovered for the first time the traditional baths and the ritual of shojin ryori, a Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.

We took advantage of the afternoon to explore the surrounding temples, but it was when we visited the Oku-no-in cemetery, lined with hundred-year-old redwoods and where the tombs are covered in moss, that the place took on another dimension. We went back after dark, after our meal, despite a strict 9pm curfew, to capture that special atmosphere and try to convey it through our images.

The next morning, still jetlagged, we unfortunately missed the start of the morning prayer. However, the hypnotic sound of the sutras and the smell of incense enveloped the monastery... We were a little disappointed with ourselves.

Where to stay | where to eat in Koyasan

Fukuchi-in is our monastery and place of residence for the night. It's a vast building with several rooms, all with private toilets, a rarity in Koyasan. The staff spoke English and gave us a warm welcome. However, for a future visit, I would choose a smaller, more intimate temple, closer to the Oku-no-in cemetery, so that we could go there at different times of the day or night without having to walk 30 minutes each way.

For a good cup of coffee and a delicious cake, head to Bon On Shya Cafe, run by a Franco-Japanese couple. And for a gourmet break in the middle of the day, we discovered this charming address, Tommy Nana Cafe, a little out of the way but with a more than friendly welcome.

→ KYOTO [ 5 nights ]

In the early afternoon, we set off again: by bus to the Koya-san funicular station, then by funicular down to Gokurakubashi station. From there, we take the train to Namba station in Osaka, from where we have to take the metro, red line from M20 to M13 Shin-Osaka, to board our first shinkansen. In just 13 minutes, we cover the distance between Osaka and Kyoto...
京都へようこそ

At Kyoto station, we spent more than an hour on the platform, admiring the meticulous ballet of shinkansen trains that followed one another almost every 5 minutes on their way to Tokyo. The train conductors and platform managers put on a captivating show that we couldn't get enough of, with the magnificent light at the end of the day.

By taxi, and slightly exhausted by the day's transport, we arrive at our accommodation for five nights in Kyoto. Our suitcases, which had not followed us to Koya-san, are waiting for us in our room. In Japan, you can send your suitcases from one hotel to another, for a fee, of course. It's a very practical solution, as you don't have to drag your suitcases through stations and can travel light. The only minor drawback is that there is almost always a one-night delay. But ask at your hotel reception when you arrive to plan the rest of your journey.

Day 1 • higashiyama & Gion

On our first day, we opted to explore the iconic districts of Higashiyama and Gion by bike. Our hotel reception pointed us in the direction of the nearest bike hire company (there are bikes all over Kyoto), as it's a relatively flat city that's easy to explore by bike. This gave us total flexibility to explore the picturesque streets and famous sites at our own pace. A word of advice: be sure to get lost in the narrow streets, as this is where you'll often discover the city's hidden treasures.

Ginkaku-ji

Our itinerary began with an iconic visit to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion, surrounded by tranquil Zen gardens. The understated elegance of this temple, with its refined architecture and meticulously landscaped moss gardens, provided the perfect introduction to Kyoto's rich culture.

Honen-in & Philosophers' Path

We then cycled to Honen-in, a hidden treasure in the heart of the greenery, and took the Philosophers' Path. Stop off at café Pomme for a homemade cake and a cup of coffee while chatting to the friendly owner.

Nanzenji & Nanzen-ji Sammon Gate

We continue on our way to Nanzen-ji Sanmon Gate, an imposing and majestic structure that stands at the entrance to the Nanzen-ji temple complex in Kyoto. This monumental gate impresses with its imposing size and architectural elegance. We pause here for a moment, trying to capture its grandeur as best we can.

Chion-in

We cycle past Chion-in, one of Japan's largest temples and famous for its impressive Sanmon Gate, one of the largest in the country.

Gion

Here we are at last in the famous Gion district, with its narrow streets and traditional charm... but by the end of the day, the crowds are thick. It's decided, we'll make an early return to discover its traditional machiya with hardly anyone around.

Kiyomizu-dera

The day ends with a visit to Kiyomizu-dera, above the Gion district, offering a panoramic view of Kyoto from its wooden terrace.

Kamo-gawa

We turn back towards our hotel to return our bikes. Our journey takes us along the banks of the Kamo-Gawa. The atmosphere changes completely: the calm of the banks, the soothing murmur of the river and the evening lights... it's good to get away from the hustle and bustle of Gion.

Day 2 • Fushimi Inari & Nishiki Market

On this 2nd day, we're off to discover 2 of Kyoto's most emblematic landmarks: Fushimi Inari & the Nishiki Market.

Fushimi Inari

Fushimi Inari is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto deity of rice and prosperity. Its origins date back over a thousand years, when the powerful Hata no Irogu clan built the shrine in honour of the deity. Since then, Fushimi Inari has become Japan's most important shrine dedicated to Inari.

The climb up the hill is accompanied by a lively crowd of visitors, all captivated by the scarlet torii. However, as we make our way towards the top of the mountain, the bustle of the crowd gradually diminishes. The higher up we go, the more alone we are with the majestic torii all around us and a beautiful forest that is still green in early October.

Le Café Vermillon, which serves excellent coffee and delicious pastries, is perfect for a break after exploring the sanctuary.

Marché de Nishiki

We ended our day at the Nishiki Market. This proved to be the perfect opportunity to immerse ourselves in a variety of flavours. From grilled eel kebabs to oyster tastings, freshly prepared sushi and local delicacies, our taste buds loved it.

Day 3 • Nara

For our third day, we decided to take a side trip to Nara, about 1 hour by train from Kyoto. On the outskirts of Nara Park, we were greeted by sacred deer roaming freely. It's quite a sight to see these creatures, an integral part of the region's cultural heritage, living there amongst the tourists.

The Todai-ji, an impressive Buddhist temple, is our second point of interest. This gigantic structure houses a monumental statue of Vairocana Buddha.

Wandering through the park's ancient tree-lined alleys, we came across Kasuga Taisha, a Shinto shrine with moss-covered stone lanterns and deer playing hide-and-seek. You'll need a bit of patience to capture some pretty pictures.

Day 4 • Sagano

Arashiyama

Day four started early, perhaps a little too early, but the idea was to discover Arashiyama without the usual crowds. We weren't the first to hit the trails and the rather overcast weather played tricks on us to capture the bamboo forest in the early morning darkness. But as usual, with a little patience, we managed to get the images we wanted of this magnificent little bamboo forest.

Unlike most tourists, we're moving away from Arashiyama to discover Sagano, with its typical, peaceful streets. It's as if every step we take takes us a little further away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trade and into the peaceful authenticity of this district.

Adashino Nenbutsuji

We spent the day exploring Sagano, starting with Adashino Nenbutsu-ji. Set in the hills, this is a unique Buddhist temple imbued with a serene atmosphere. On arrival, you are greeted by a fascinating array of thousands of stone Jizo statues. The temple paths wind through a mini bamboo forest, which is much less touristy than Arashiyama... we're alone here and we're enjoying it.

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji

The day continued with a visit to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, a Buddhist temple housing a remarkable collection of Jizo statues with a variety of expressions. Each of these statues has its own character, making for a truly enjoyable discovery.

Day 5 • Gion & Kinkaku-ji

Gion

The fifth and final day also gets off to an early start, with an early wake-up call to explore the Gion district at sunrise. The district reveals itself in a different way at this early hour, with a peaceful, authentic beauty. The atmosphere is calm, but already several photographers share the same idea as us. As we wander through the quiet alleyways, we even witness a very Instagrammable marriage proposal...

Kinkaku-ji

After breakfast, we set off for the Golden Pavilion, Kyoto's most famous landmark. It's already quite busy, but despite the large number of visitors, it's still surprisingly easy to capture the magnificent silhouette of the pavilion, reflected almost perfectly in the tranquil waters of the pond.

Daitoku-ji : Ōbai-in & Daisen-in

We then head to Daitoku-ji, exploring the Ōbai-in and Daisen-in temples within this complex. We are captivated by the unique atmosphere of these places, unfortunately no cameras are allowed inside. It is perhaps this restriction that helps to preserve their charm and tranquillity, avoiding mass tourism. These temples offer a wonderful final immersion in Kyoto's spiritual history before we leave, and just before we make a final stop at the Nishiki market, ending our stay in Kyoto on a delicious gourmet note.

Where to stay | where to eat in kyoto

We stayed at the Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier located on the Kamo-gawa river. Its location is very central and convenient, allowing us to explore the whole of Kyoto. The rooms are pretty and comfortable. We recommend it without hesitation.

For a Kaiseki meal, head to Another C! it at the counter and watch as the chef juggles each dish in front of you. Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese culinary experience that takes you through several artistically presented dishes, each showcasing unique flavours and textures. A real treat for lovers of Japanese cuisine.

In and around the famous Pontocho alleyway, you'll find a host of small restaurants. It's a real paradise for food lovers. The picturesque atmosphere of this alleyway adds a special touch.

For beer lovers, head a few steps from our hotel to discover the delicious beers of Arashiyama Brewerey.

→ Kanazawa [ 2 nights ]

Welcome to Kanazawa, a town nestling on the west coast of Japan, renowned for its careful preservation of the Edo period.

Kenroku-en

Our first stop in Kanazawa was to explore Kenroku-en, often considered to be one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan. In all honesty, we were slightly disappointed. Although the garden is undeniably beautiful, with its serene ponds, curved bridges and carefully trimmed trees, our feelings remain mixed.

Higashi-Chaya

At the end of the day, we strolled through the historic Higashi-Chaya district. However, we also had mixed feelings. Although the charm of the traditional houses is undeniable, the experience is somewhat marred by the very touristy aspect of the district. The many souvenir shops create a commercial atmosphere that can be perplexing.

As you will have gathered, our exploration of this city did not leave us with any unforgettable memories. Perhaps the bar was set too high after Kyoto. However, Kanazawa is a convenient transition to the next stage of our journey: the mountainous region of the Japanese Alps.

Where to stay | where to eat in kanazawa

We stayed at the Hôtel Vista Kanazawa, a business type of accommodation, but strategically well placed. It's close to the train station and the car rental service.

For fresh, local dishes, head to the Ômichô market... fish and other good seafood, but also fruit and vegetables... There are lots of little restaurants between the stalls... let yourself be inspired!

→ JAPANESE ALPES [ 2 nights ]

We're off! Here we are at the controls of our typically Japanese car... a sort of white berlingot ready to take us on a discovery tour of the Japanese Alps. We set off towards the typical villages of Ainokura, Suganuma and Shirakawa-go, ready to explore the traditional charms of the Japanese Alps.

Ainokura

First village with traditional gassho-zukuri houses... The sloping thatched houses look like hands joined in prayer.

Suganuma

The second village, Suganuma, is our favourite of the trio. Smaller and less touristy, it exudes an authentic, unspoilt atmosphere. The peace and quiet that reigns here, far from the tourist crowds, gave us the opportunity to eat our fill at a charming local restaurant preparing delicious soba.

Shirakawa-go

Our last stop of the day: the emblematic thatched-roof village of Shirakawa-go. Despite the crowds, the view below, with the fog enveloping the surrounding area, creates a beautiful atmosphere.

Takayama

On our second day in the Japanese Alps, after exploring Takayama's traditional centre, the Sanmachi-suji district, we decided to venture out on the temple trail, in search of hidden gems in this charming town. Thirteen Buddhist temples and five Shinto shrines can be discovered from Shiroyama Park on a walk lasting around two hours.

The rain catches up with us, and we take refuge for a well-deserved coffee break at Tabinoshiori, where you can rent the upper floor on AirBnB for the night.

Hida

In the afternoon, the rain poured down. After wandering around the village, we took refuge in a café, the FabCafé, in the hope of making our own chopsticks. However, like so many things in Japan, there's no workshop unless you book in advance... Shame!

After a good coffee and a surprisingly delicious Bordeaux canelé, we set off again in the rain to discover Shirakabe Dozogai street. This street is crossed by the Seto canal, filled with glowing carp (from April to November) swimming against the current. We learned that the fish swim in the waters of the canal most of the year, but are moved during the winter. Every year, on the last Sunday in November, many local people come to help move the fish by hand. They are transported in a container, then into Tenjin Pond, the moat that surrounds the ruins of Masushima Castle.

After spending 2 wonderful nights in our Ryokan Wanosanto (see chapter below on where to sleep), we headed back to Kanazawa in the pouring rain to return our supercar and board our last Shinkansen bound for the capital.

Where to stray | where to eat in Takayama

We stayed for 2 nights with evening meals included at Wanosanto, a ryokan nestling near Takayama, in a thatched gasshō-zukuri house ideally situated near the river, surrounded by forest. This combination of rusticity and vegetation gives the place an authentic charm. The spacious, traditional room with its picturesque view of the river offers a total immersion in the Japanese experience. The delicious meals allowed us to sample local specialities such as Hida beef. We were also able to take advantage of the private onsen. All the staff are very attentive. A relaxing atmosphere, an escape from time... An address we can recommend with our eyes closed! We also met Fanny and Mathieu, a couple with a passion for travel like us, with whom we chatted around the fire until late at night.

→ TOKYO [ 5 nights ]

We're finally in Japan's capital... our pretty & quiet Ryokan in the Japanese Alps already seems a long way away... It's not as busy as New York or London, everything's in order here, but the flow of Japanese people in the transport system and stations makes your head spin... if you stop for a minute, you could compare rush hour to a contemporary dance ballet... it goes in all directions, but it works!

To discover this sprawling city, we've organised our days by district to avoid having to travel too far... you're ready, here we go!

Day 1 • West of Tokyo

Headquarters of the Metropolitan Government

Our morning began with a visit to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters. The proximity of our accommodation, just across the road, meant that we were able to get there early in the morning before the tourist rush. This first view gave us an impressive view of Tokyo, a city that seems to stretch as far as the eye can see. On a clear day, you can even see Mount Fuji.

Harajuku

We then headed for the Harajuku district. Harajuku, a district of Tokyo popular with young people and fashionistas, is a veritable melting pot of trends and styles. Takeshita Street, Harajuku's main thoroughfare, is lined with colourful shops selling a variety of eccentric clothes, bold accessories and sweet treats. Young locals, dressed in styles ranging from kawaii to punk, parade down this lively street.

Not far from Harajuku is Omotenashi Sando, often abbreviated to Omotesando. It's an iconic avenue in Tokyo, renowned for its elegance and luxury boutiques. Nicknamed the "Champs-Élysées of Tokyo", Omotesando offers an elegant and sophisticated atmosphere. But we liked the district to the south of this avenue, Minami-Aoyama, even more. The tiny streets of Minami-Aoyama are lined with trees, international designer boutiques and Japanese brands, creating a peaceful and pleasant atmosphere for a stroll. The district is also home to contemporary art galleries and cafés.

Shibuya

A little further on... and we've arrived in a completely different atmosphere! Welcome to Shibuya, one of Tokyo's liveliest districts, renowned for its electric atmosphere, sparkling neon signs and busy crossroads, the famous 'Shibuya Crossing'. We're going to spend some time observing the hustle and bustle and trying to capture the atmosphere at sunset. It's hard to get a full aerial view... so to get a glimpse, we climbed up to Mag's Rooftop.

Shinjuku

We end our evening in the Shinjuku district... another dynamic part of Tokyo... we're less charmed... tiredness catches up with us and doesn't allow us to appreciate the effervescence of the district. It's decided, we'll come back another evening.

Day 2 • Est of Tokyo

Our second day in Tokyo took us into two distinct worlds. The morning began in Akihabara, the emblematic district of electronics, manga, anime and games. The afternoon took us to Asakusa, a district that reveals a more traditional side of Tokyo.

Akihabara

The electronics district par excellence, we couldn't do without a visit to a department store. As soon as we entered, we were a little thrown by the multitude of products on display, the non-stop slogans and music, and the jumble of products... But it was nice for Marc to be able to take everything in hand, to compare all the models in one place... A word of warning to enthusiasts: you might be in for a long wait!

Asakusa

As we exit the metro, we arrive opposite the Sumida River, offering a spectacular view of the Tokyo Skytree and the Super Dry Hall, headquarters of the Asahi brewery, designed by Philippe Starck to resemble a giant beer mug. However, we continue to stroll through the Asakusa district, which reveals a more traditional side of Tokyo.

To get some height, we headed up to the rooftop of the tourist office, which was free and offered a lovely view of the district and Senso-ji temple. Once back on the ground, we were greeted by the majestic and imposing Kaminarimon Gate as we made our way towards Senso-ji temple, teeming with people... tourists, Tokyoites, pilgrims, curious onlookers... a great hustle and bustle in the beautiful light at the end of the day.

Day 3 • South of Tokyo

Tsukiji market

The third day in Tokyo began with a morning trip to Tsukiji market. We were able to sample a whole host of fish specialities: sushi, oysters, grilled eels, etc. While wandering around the stalls, we also spent some time in a Japanese knife shop... hard to choose!

We had the pleasure of meeting up again with our friends, Fanny and Mathieu, who invited us to have lunch together in a typical Tsukishima restaurant,Oshio Nagomi. This special place is an artificial island created at the end of the 19th century, nestling near the Tsukiji fish market in Chuo district, along Tokyo Bay. In this restaurant, we had the opportunity to try monjayaki, a local speciality derived from Osaka's okonomiyaki. Imagine a kind of pancake filled with seafood, vegetables, noodles and meat, grilled by yourself in front of us on a hot plate. It was a real delight and a lovely moment shared together.

Ginza

After a good meal, we said goodbye to Fanny and Mathieu and headed for the Ginza district. There, we enjoyed a bit of shopping, but above all, we enjoyed walking around this district where each building seems to have its own personality. We were particularly taken with the Hermès building. The building boasts a unique glass façade made up of 13,000 square blocks of glass designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano.

One experience we highly recommend is to climb to the top of Tokyo Plaza Ginza to access The Mint Ginza, a chic café that allows you to admire the view of the surrounding area and the magnificent pedestrian walkway. It's an ideal way to catch the last rays of sunshine.

Tokyo Bay

Once night has fallen, we head for Odaiba and Tokyo Bay. To get there, we board the Yurikamome Monorail, which circles the bay, linking Tokyo's various artificial islands. The route is a curiosity in itself; the elevated track winds its way through the skyscrapers before looping around to Rainbow Bridge and crossing over to Odaiba. A short stop in the Odaiba marine park to take in the view of Tokyo, the Rainbow Bridge and the yakatabune, a traditional boat decorated with lanterns, before continuing on our way.

We end the day with a visit to the TeamLab Planet, a museum combining digital art and the beauty of nature... an immersive art of light, water and sound. But to be honest, we were a little disappointed by the experience... The day's accumulated fatigue got the better of us!

Day 4 • Fujisan

For our last full day in Japan... we had 2 options: either visit the Ueno & Yanesen district, or go and discover Mount Fuji... The call of nature was stronger, and we decided to take the first bus towards the 5 lakes region, Fujigoko. Arriving in Kawaguchiko, we hired a car to make the most of our journey.

Our first stop is in the centre of the town of Fuji-Yoshida, to capture Mount Fuji in an urban atmosphere. This morning, however, it's playing hide-and-seek with us... The little café FabCafe Fuji is an ideal place to wait and eat.

Chureito Pagoda is our 2nd viewpoint of Mount Fuji. We climb the many steps to reach the Pagoda and discover this landscape, which is one of Japan's best-known photographs.

This day ends by the shores of Lake Kawaguchi-ko... Mount Fuji becomes more and more visible... We really could have spent a night here instead of returning to Tokyo to enjoy the beautiful morning and evening lights...

Day 5 • Last morning

This morning, with only half a day available before our departure, we set out without any camera gear, feeling as light as feathers, to stroll around the Harajuku district and make some last-minute purchases. But after these two and a half weeks, we are certain that this will not be our last trip to Japanese soil, as there is still so much more to discover! We want to warmly thank Virginie for organizing this trip. If you live in Switzerland, we highly recommend her services.

Where to stay | where to eat in tokyo

Keio Plaza Hotel was our accommodation for our 5 nights in Tokyo. Located in the business district opposite the metropolitan government headquarters, it is imposing and bustling with tourists. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this accommodation, not because of its quality, but more because of its location. Despite its proximity to Shinjuku Station, in the evening there is nothing open anymore; it's as if this business district empties out when the offices close. If we were to come back... we would prefer accommodation in the Minami-Aoyama district.

Shibuya
For beer enthusiasts, head to Mikkeler Tokyo, a brewery that we discovered in the Faroe Islands.

Shinjuku
Omoide yokocho eOmoide Yokocho is a collection of narrow alleys housing numerous small, typical Japanese restaurants called izakaya, located just outside Shinjuku Station. This pedestrian zone is ideal for tasting grilled meat skewers yakitori, in a popular atmosphere and at a reasonable price.

Quartier de Tsukishima
Oshio Nagomi, a typical restaurant in Tsukishima, where we had the opportunity to taste monjayaki, a local specialty derived from Osaka's okonomiyaki. Imagine a sort of pancake filled with seafood, vegetables, noodles, and meat, grilled by your own hands on a hotplate in front of us. It was a real delight and a lovely moment shared with Fanny & Mathieu.

• また必ず来るよ •

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→ Here are some tips to facilitate your trip

• Download Google Maps offline maps on your phone before you leave. It's super convenient if you don't have access to network.

• Purchase an e-SIM card from Holafly for unlimited mobile data connection in Japan.

• If you plan on driving, make sure to have an international driving permit and a translation in Japanese.

• Use the website Japan Transit Planer to check all possible transportation options with their connections. If you have a JR Pass, click on the tab at the top right under "Rail Pass search" to only show routes included in the JR Pass.

• Create an account on the Visit Japan Web website to complete your administrative and customs procedures. You'll receive 2 QR codes that will greatly facilitate your entry into Japanese territory after a long, tiring flight.

• Purchase the Suica card, a prepaid smart card that allows you to use most public transportation (subway, trains, buses, monorail). The card is debited for each trip or purchase by simply touching it to the Suica card reader. There's also the Pasmo card available.

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The articles and photos we publish on this blog belong to us, unless otherwise stated, so please be fair and do not use them without contacting us first.

Cyclades & Athens • Santorin, Milos, Serifos [Greece] ENG

FR | ENG

Here is our 2nd trip of the year 2022 through islands, after the Faroe Islands in June, we are this time much further south in September ... Kalimera the Cyclades!
Below, you will find the map of the Cyclades and the 3 islands we chose to visit... This is not an exhaustive choice, because each one has its particularities and its charms. We started with Santorini, because there is a direct flight from Geneva and we still wanted to see once in our life this beautiful volcanic island despite the mass tourism. We then continued our journey via ferry to Milos, with its lunar landscape and colorful fishing villages. Serifos, secret and beautiful, will be our last Cycladic stop before reaching the boiling Athens.

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→ SANTORIN [4 nights]

It is with apprehension that we land in Santorini... Why did we give in to mass tourism? Are we really going to enjoy this step? A lot of questioning when we arrived, but after 3 days spent on this magnificent volcanic island, here are the advices we can give you: come out of season, get off the beaten track, don't stay focused on the tourist spots, because there are plenty of beautiful pearls to discover, and get up early to enjoy the spots without "almost" anyone.

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Fira

Fira, the main town of the island, is our first encounter with the typical landscape of Santorini: a white village clinging to the side of the cliff overlooking the Caldera, the crater of the volcano. The view is spectacular, with these rocky cliffs, the blue of the sea and these white villages. One piece of advice to take full advantage of the view and to stroll quietly in its pretty streets, come early, before 10 am before the horde of tourists from the ferries arrives.

Pyrgos

Here is one of our favorite villages, Pyrgos is located on the highest part of the island, it has a quiet animation, with its bars and restaurants. We appreciate its views over the whole island of Santorini and strolling through its narrow streets.

Emporiou

A village not to be missed... A little secret, even intimate with this mixture of white, blue and orange colors which gives all its particularity and its graphic lines that we like. Not to be missed under any circumstances, a stop at the small traditional café, To Kafenedaki Tou Emporiou, where we could taste local specialties... A delight suspended in time and sheltered from mass tourism.

Perissa beach

We couldn't do without a trip to the beach. We chose the long black sand beach of Perissa to bask in the sun... But Santorini has other beaches on the southern part of the island like: Red Beach, White Beach and other black sand beaches like Vlychada and Perivolos.

Oia

The most famous village of Santorini, Oia (pronounced ia), but also one of the most touristic. We decided not to visit Oia in the evening at sunset but to prefer the dawn. The village was "almost empty" with a pinkish hue in the sky. After wandering around the village, enjoying the view of the windmills and watching the sun rise, we take advantage of this moment to have a coffee and a Greek yogurt at Vitrin Cafe. When private shootings of women dressed in flying red dresses appear, it's time to leave, with beautiful images in our heads.

walk fira-oia

If there is a walk to do on Santorini, it is the one from Fira to Oia. However, staying just north of Imerovigli on the way of the hike (see chapter "where to stay"), we followed the path in the evening from our hotel (Caldera's Memories) to Fira (about 1h30 round trip) and a second time at dawn to Oia (about 4h round trip). This second part is the wildest and allows you to walk along the whole edge of the Caldera. Be careful though, it can be very hot, almost no shade on the path and the black stone accentuates this feeling. Don't forget to hang a drink, to wear a hat, to put sun cream and of course to admire the view all along the way. To avoid walking back, you can also take the bus directly back to Fira.

Imerovigli & Skaros rock

Not far from our hotel is the chic Imerovigli, more intimate than Fira and Oia, here is a place of peace and quiet facing an incredible view at sunset. Not to be missed, the walk to the Skaros Rock below the village, and to enjoy a sunset almost alone, we continued our journey to the charming Mother of Lord Theskepasti church below the rock.

Where to stay | where to eat

Thanks to Virgine's advice, we stayed at Caldera’s Memories at the first part of Imerovigli on the hiking trail from Fira to Oia, without breaking our piggy bank. This comfortable hotel has a magnificent view on the Caldera and Oia in the distance, the welcome is very warm and the à la carte breakfast is delicious... the only drawback is that there is no bar or restaurant, which is a pity because we would have appreciated to have an aperitif and to admire the sunset in this intimate place with this magnificent view.

If there is one restaurant not to be missed during your trip to Santorini it is Five Senses in Imerovigli. The view of the Caldera and Skaros Rock, the location, the decoration, but most of all the quality of the food transported us in a gustatory delight... an authentic last evening on Santorini.

You will have understood, despite our apprehensions about mass tourism, we do not regret these few days on Santorini to discover its villages and its viewpoints.

→ MILOS [ 4 nights ]

After a 2 hour ferry ride, we disembark at the beautiful port of Adamas, on the island of Milos. After picking up our white Panda 4x4, nicknamed White Dunkey, we follow our host to our accommodation in Fourkovouni. It is a completely different island that we discover, more quiet, certainly tourist, but we have this impression to have really arrived in Greece.

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Fishermen's villages

Milos is known for its many fishing villages with colorful houses, the Syrmata. Just take your car and drive to the north of the island to Klima, Fyropotamos and Mandrakia to enjoy the view. Do not miss a meal at Medusa in Mandrakia to taste a sun-dried octopus.

Sarakiniko

Welcome to the moon... or on a meringue... the choice is yours! Sarakiniko on the northern coast of Milos is a place with amazing white volcanic rock formations, kaolinite, polished by winds and waters for millions of years. The place attracts a lot of people, but it is worth the detour and allows for lounging and swimming (when the sea is not too rough) via the very small beach at the bottom of the channel.

Milos has other beautiful beaches to visit: in the north the magnificent beach of Plathiena and its pretty hut and in the south-east of Milos the beaches such as Fyriplaka, Tsigrado, Gerakas... It only remains to choose the one you prefer... We especially enjoyed our semi-private cove in Fourkovouni.

Plaka & Adamas

The main village of Plaka, is a concentrate of the Cycladic ideal with its winding streets, white houses, cafes and typical restaurants. Come here in the evening for the sunset from the Kastro, on the hill at the top of Plaka. Don't miss a breakfast at Palaios coffee & Pastry and a dinner at Archontoula in the heart of the village. At the port of Adamas, we particularly enjoyed the restaurant Kynigos served by the old owner who showed us some nice specialties.

Where to stay

For this 2nd stage, we stay in a Syrmata, in the small bay of Fourkovouni, welcome to Capt. Nikolas. t is an experience to live, because the house is 100% ecological, powered exclusively by solar panels and with a gravity water system. We loved the place, the intimacy, the private bay, but we don't recommend room n°II, prefer room n°I despite the fact that the sanitary facilities are outside or if you stay a week, break your piggy bank to rent the whole Syrmata just next door, The Cove Beach House.

→ SERIFOS [ 4 nights ]

After a 1 hour ferry ride, we disembark at the port of Livadi, here we go for 4 nights on the pretty and intimate Serifos, we are far from mass tourism and it feels good... So after getting our mini coach (3rd white dunkey of the trip), we are ready to slow down the pace.

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Chora

The magnificent perched village of the island of Serifos. We see it as soon as we arrive at the port of Livadi and attracts us like a magnet. We enjoy strolling through its narrow streets, its mini squares with its cafes and its many stairs to the castle. Take the time to stroll and get lost in its alleys... come early in the morning, late in the evening or even during the day... and just enjoy.

Beaches

All around the island you will find beautiful beaches, the most beautiful of our stay without a doubt. Just rent a car and follow the circular road with your bathing suit, a picnic and your laundry and off you go: Agios Ammos Bay, Psilis Ammos Bay, Platys Gialos Bay, Sikamia Beach, Paralia Skala, Ganema Bay, Vagia Bay? chapter "where to stay") Agios Sostis Bay... wild, intimate, with a small church so as not to forget that we are in the Cyclades.

Island tour

Besides the beautiful beaches, you will find other sights all around the island. The Taxiarchon monastery in the north of the island and the iron mine ruins in the south of the island.

Where to stay | where to eat

In Serifos, we wanted to stay at the Coco Mat Serifos in the bay of Vagia, but for this last week of September, it was already closed. Finally it is at the Hôtel Rize that we put our bags. A nice discovery because better placed, a few minutes from the lively port of Livadi, with a breathtaking view of the Chora of Serifos. We recommend it with closed eyes, because of its location, its warm welcome by all the staff.

In Chora, we discover in the local tavern Marathoriza,offering dishes that we had not yet seen on other menus: stuffed calamari, potato and dill salad, caper salad. In the small church square, there are many cafes and cocktail bars with colorful Greek chairs to try. In Livadi, you will be spoilt for choice, but we have chosen restaurants with fish such as Kali Seafood and Takis.

→ ATHENS [ 3 nights ]

We leave the Cyclades with the heavy heart and with a certain apprehension to finish our journey by a big city. But these 2 days in Athens allowed us to visit, to feel, to live, to roam through the center and its numerous historical sites.

Acropolis & Philopappos Hill

Of course, you can't come to Athens without visiting the Acropolis. We decided to come at the end of the day to catch the last rays of sun. Of course, it's crowded but it's a once in a lifetime experience. To see the Acropolis under its best angle, in the middle of nature and in all tranquillity, we advise you to climb the hill of Philopappos in front of it... an incredible 360° view on the whole city.

Panathenaic Stadium

This stadium, "stadium of all Athenians" is an ancient stadium of Athens, renovated for the 1st Olympic Games of the modern era in 1896. Its usual name in Greek, Kallimármaro "of a beautiful marble", refers to the marble with which it is covered. The elongated track is typical of the ancient stadium, about 200m long, with a very tight curve. It is located between two hills covered with pine trees, a beautiful place to imagine the athlete of tomorrow...

Street Art Guided Tour

To discover a more actual Athens, we undertake to participate in a guided tour "Street Art" with Alternative Athens. A great way to explore the neighborhoods with a guide and feel the pulse of the city. We recommend to do this tour at the beginning of your stay, so you can return to the place later.

Where to stay

For these 2 days in Athens, the Coco-Mat Athens-Jumelle Hotel is our home base. Located in the business and embassy district, a bit out of the tourist area, it is nevertheless surrounded by several nice restaurants and cafes frequented by locals and travelers alike. Also within walking distance are the Soldier's Monument, Syntagma Square, the Botanical Gardens and the Presidential Grade.

• Sun, sea, perched villages... Greece as we imagine it •

Thanks to Virginie, Freelance at TUI, for the organization of this trip.
Don't forget to download our map on the application mapst n order to discover all our addresse.

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The articles and photos we publish in this blog belong to us, unless otherwise stated, so be fair, do not use them without contacting us furst...

Faroe Islands • So far away [Danemark] ENG

FR | ENG

Let's go for a destination like no other... 9 years after Iceland, we wanted to find the nature of the great north, the green spaces as far as the eye can see, because indeed here the legend says that there are more sheep than inhabitants... The Faroe Islands are 18 steep islands, like big rocks in the North Atlantic, somewhere between the Shetland Islands and Iceland. It's a wild, stormy land with half the sunshine of home. So here we are, on a 10-day roadtrip through the Faroe Islands in our hybrid RAV4, nicknamed Bou-bou (because it's muddy). It's a real treat for lovers of wide open spaces and wind!

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→ Sørvágur, Vágar Island [ 3 nights ]

Let's go for our 2 days on Vágar Island... this island may not be the most spectacular from a cliffs point of view but it is full of beautiful sights.

Bøur

Bøur, a tiny village a few kilometres from Sørvágur, is our first glimpse of the turf roofs that are characteristic of these islands. A sod roof, sometimes called a peat roof, is a traditional Scandinavian type of green roof, consisting of sods laid on layers of birch bark. The turf is used as a reasonably effective insulator in a cold climate and the birch bark underneath ensures that the roof is waterproof.

All that's left is for us to wander around the village, respecting the privacy of the inhabitants and enjoying the best view, a little far away, of Drangarnir, the famous rock-arch off Vágar Island.

Drangarnir

The famous rock... it is visible from the road at the village of Bøur, but 2 other options are possible. You can either pass by it on your way back from Mykines island by boat or you can book a guide to do the walk from Sørvágur to the tip of Vágar... you will be face to face with this magnificent natural curioté. Unfortunately the weather on our 2nd day in the Faroes made us give up the visit of Mykines and the walk to Drangarnir... Next time maybe?

Gásadalsgardur | Múlafossur

Just north of Vágar, the road dead-ends at the village of Gásadalsgardur after passing through our first one-lane tunnel of our Faroese journey with Bou-bou (pictured above). The village is not particularly interesting except for a quick coffee and a slice of carrot cake at Café Fjorooy. What is worth the diversions is to walk along the cliff, to take a deep breath of air and to finish the mini hike by the Múlafossur waterfall.

LeItisvatn | lac suspendu

Another highlight of the Faroes is to see the hanging lake. Lake Leitisvatn is the largest lake in the Faroes, a lake perched on a cliff 30 metres above sea level. The view of the sea and the lake is accessible from a small car park above Miðvágur. The path is very well maintained but there is a fee for the right of way (25CHF per person). A short hour's walk will take you to a breathtaking view...

Beware that even if the walk is easy and not particularly difficult, the weather conditions are so variable that we left with a beautiful sunny jumper and returned with overcast weather, an almost unbearable wind and with all our layers on. So never forget that here you can experience all 3 seasons in just a few hours.

Sandavàgur

A nice village with a huge church and a good restaurant, the Fiskastykkið... A stop which allows us to observe the houses, the grass roofs and to slow down the rhythm... It is rare to meet Faroese walking around... everything seems to be suspended, stopped, in pause...

Trøllkonufinfur

South of Sandavàgur, a road and then a track brings us to the viewpoint. Trøllkonufingur, which means the finger of the troll woman, is a 313 m high monolith. Legend has it that Trøllkonufingur is the finger of a witch who came to Iceland from the Faroe Islands. When she reached the sea south of Vágar, the sun rose and she was turned into stone and fell into the ocean. She was so big that when she reached the bottom of the sea, the back of her head and her finger were above the surface. The back of her head is the island of Koltur, and her finger is Trøllkonufingur.

Where to stay | where to eat

In order to land smoothly and have a cocoon in case of bad weather (which was the case on our 2nd day... super storm with rain at the horzontal and unbearable wind) we decided to stay at Cottage By The Sea. Five cottages on the water's edge, fully equipped and cosy... nothing better to take refuge and feel at home.

There are not many places to eat on the island of Vágar (as on all the islands except the capital Torshavn). One address not to be missed but open only during the day is the Fiskastykkið, A good fish soup, nice desserts and a delicious coffee... all in a friendly atmosphere, with an authentic and neat decoration. Otherwise, in Sørvágur, you can go to Café Pollastova where the welcome is very friendly but the menu is rather limited or you can just cook yourself a small dish after having gone to PE Sørvágur or Bònus in Miðvágur.

→ Gjògv, Eysturoy Island [ 2 nights ]

We leave Vágar Island in the direction of Gjògv on the island of Eysturoy, but on the way we make a short diversions to the north of the island of Streymoy to discover some typical localities.

Saksun, Streymoy island

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Another highlight of the Faroe Islands is the remote village-museum of Saksun. Its grass-roofed houses set in a natural circular amphitheatre overlooking a tidal lagoon is a lovely half-day destination. In the fjord at the foot of the village is a lagoon where, at low tide, it is possible to walk along the sandy shore. The village has a church, built in 1858, and Dúvugarðar, a working farm which also serves as a museum. However, beware of the many restrictions: no droning in the village, no walking on the lawn... it feels like the few tourists here are already too many for the 14 inhabitants of the village... Too bad!

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Fossá, Streymoy Island

On the way to Tjørnuvik, you will pass by this beautiful double waterfall. The view on the other side of the island of Esturoy is even better.

Tjørnuvik, Streymoy Island

Finally arrived at Tjørnuvik... we are at the northernmost point of the main island of Streymoy. The village is located at the bottom of a deep talweg, mostly in the shade, but has a sandy beach (quite rare in the Faroes) with a nice view on the two stacks named Risin and Kellingin.

A little surprise, a gentleman with his children offers us a good coffee and a waffle with rhubarb jam and whipped cream on tables outside... an unexpected delight.

EidI, Eysturoy Island

We turn back for a few kilometres to Eysturoy Island and take the opposite road from the fjord to reach the village of Eidi. Here, the sight to see is the football field transformed into a camping area by the ocean.

We continue our way to Gjògv, through the pass at the foot of Slættaratindur, the highest mountain in the Faroes. Unfortunately because of the weather... damn fog... we decide not to climb it... At this point, we say to ourselves that we will try again the next day...

Gjògv, Eysturoy Island

The charming village of Gjògv is located on the northernmost part of the island of Esturoy. The village has a guesthouse and a café right next to the natural harbour. To enjoy the view and to see shearwaters, you have to climb the cliff from the café... you'll have to warm up your calves!

By staying 2 nights in Gjògv, we thought we would have a weather window to climb Slættaratindur, but it's only a postponement... we take advantage of this mystical weather to walk in the surrounding villages... don't miss the charming little village of Elduvik and the church in Funningur

Elduvik, Eysturoy Island

Funningur, Eysturoy Island

Not far from Gjògv, on the other side of the pass, in the small village of Funningur, there is a pretty black church covered with grass and with a natural wooden interior.

Where to stay | where to eat

Here too the possibilities are limited in terms of accommodation and restaurants. But there is the inevitable Gjògv Guesthouse whose restaurant is worth a visit... well, we eat seafood! But I advise you even if you are staying there to book your table, as people come from all over to try their delicious food.

Another nice address on the way to EidI, Rose's restaurant, Rose’s Café, where we had a delicious fish of the day and a very good carrot cake.

→ Klaksvik, Bordoy Island [ 2 nights ]

Change of island, we leave Eysturoy, to join the northern ones. We take our second tunnel under the Atlantic... these constructions are just impressive and slightly frightening.

Viðareiði, Viðoy Island

We continue to the far north of the country to Viðareiði, the northernmost village at the foot of Villingdalsfjall. We decide to climb it, but we know that if the clouds at the top don't disappear by magic, the summit will be inaccessible. However, there are markers indicating the way (this is not always the case on hikes in the Faroes, which sometimes makes it difficult to undertake a hike in bad weather, as it is extremely easy to get lost). The view of the islands is magnificent, one can only imagine the view from the fog-free summit and the Enniberg cliff, the 2nd highest in Europe.

Kunoy, Kunoy island

After our day on the island of Viðoy, we go back to the village of Kunoy on the island of the same name. It is Sunday... We discover families having a good time bathing in the river.

Klaksvik, Bordoy Island

Back to Klalsvik where we will spend the 2 nights. But we are a bit disappointed by this town. It is surrounded by beautiful hills and to appreciate it you have to climb a bit. However the city as such, offers little animation: restaurant, café, bar... everything seems closed whereas we are in full month of June in 2nd city of the country.

Phare de Kallur, Kalsoy Island

It was with excitement that we waited for the right weather day to go on an excursion to Kalsoy Island. Accessible by ferry in 20 minutes from Klaksvik, one must however be prepared to... either get up very early to park one's car in pole position on the ferry loading lines, as only 12 cars can undertake the trip. No reservation is possible and knowing that locals have priority until 15 minutes before departure (we arrived 2 hours before... because from our room we could see the number of cars already waiting... and Bou-bou was the 11th car to board... phew the passengers of the 20 following cars were quite disappointed). Another option in case of overcrowding, you can always walk up to the ferry and then take the shuttle that crosses the island of Kalsoy to the village of Trøllanes. Starting point for the unmarked walk from Kallur lighthouse.

The walk to the Kallur lighthouse is not long, about 40 minutes, but there is no real path, the way can be very muddy and slippery. But this little walk is really worth it... we are lucky with the weather this time and can see the village of Gjògv, the two stacks called Risin and Kellingin in the distance and on the other side the cliffs of Enniberg and Villingdalsfjall.

We stayed almost the whole day, letting the tourists who were with us on the first ferry go and finding ourselves almost alone to enjoy this incredible nature... and also, spoiler alert, James Bond's grave. Yes, Kalsoy island was one of the shooting locations of the last James Bond movie "No Time to Die".

Another curiosity of the island, before going back to the ferry, we stop to see Kópakonan, the seal-woman. Too bad the little café next door, Café Eðge, was closed... we would have liked to extend our day here until the last ferry of the day.

Where to stay | where to eat

We stayed at Hotel Klaksvik… except that we had the huge 70's style bridal room with a headboard with a built-in radio-cassette and the view on the fjord and the ferry departure... We did not fall under the charm of this hotel. I would advise to find an AirBnB or a room at the inhabitant's. It must be said that here also, the offer of accommodation is not huge as far as restaurants are concerned. We were also disappointed, except at the Café Fríða and their delicious pies.

→ Suduroy Island [ 2 nights ]

Today is the longest leg of our journey to the southernmost island of the archipelago, Suduroy. The ferry from the capital Torshavn takes us there with the car in 2 hours. Before taking the ferry at the end of the afternoon, we will take the opportunity to make some stops, small lighthouse of Leirvik, tunnel of Eysturoy and a nice afternoon in the capital of Torshavn.

Eysturoy Tunnel

On the way to Torshavn, from the northern islands, don't miss the tunnel under the Athlantic with a roundabout... yes yes it's not a typo... unfortunately impossible to take a nice picture, so to discover it there is only one way to go.

Akraberg, Île suduroy

We arrived on the island of Suduroy after 2 hours of ferry... here the atmosphere is a little bit different... but the few restaurants, tells us that we are still in the Faroes.

For our first evening, the sky opens up and we decide to go to the southern tip of the island to discover the Akraberg lighthouse... we are almost alone with our sheep, it's blowing, it's not very hot but the sunset is magnificent.

Beinisvord, Suduroy Island

On the way back to Vágur, we decided not to take the new road with the tunnel, but the winding track up to Beinisvord between Sumba and Lopra... we almost turned back because the fog was so dense until the light became... a real sight.

Rituskor & Àsmundarstakkur, Suduroy Island

The next day, for this full day of Suduroy, we have several excuses on our wish-list, we start by going to the very north of the island to Sandvik to walk to the famous spots, Rituskor & Asmundarstakkur, we spent some time to make some pictures while apprehending the site but fighting the elements... wind & fog. It was a great time and we would have stayed longer if the rain hadn't intensified...

But little question... would you have crossed the little bridge?

The rest of the day was spent in the vicinity of Vágur and Hof looking for nice photo spots with the fishermen's huts, but unfortunately we couldn't go for a walk to the Hvannhaga lake due to the weather.

Famjin, Suduroy Island

Before taking the ferry back to the capital, we still have Famjin to discover, the road itself is beautiful after the climb from Oravik. But here one comes especially to discover the 1st flag of the Faroes, which is in the small church of the village.

Where to stay | where to eat

We stayed in a lovely BnB, Brim in Vágur. The decoration is nice, neat and Nordic style, the breakfast delicious... small downside... you hear absolutely everything that happens in the house.

For the restaurants it is again a bit complicated, we tested the Bàran fried food bar and the Matstovan Gardslon restaurant in Vágur whose welcome was very nice despite our difficulties in communicating.

→ Tórshavn [ 1 night ]

Here we go, unfortunately, for the last stage of our road trip... back to the main island for our night in the capital.

Tórshavn, Streymoy Island

Our last afternoon will be spent in the small capital of the Faroes... I don't think we have ever seen such a cute centre... it feels like another time... the historical centre is very well preserved and still houses the government administration and houses... we enjoy walking around this nice part of the city and drinking a coffee in the café-library Paname Café, before heading to our hotel for our last night.

Where to stay | where to eat in Tórshavn

Our last night was spent in the chic Hafnia Hotel… very well located at 2 steps from the centre and the port... Enjoy our nice room "where is Waldo?"... We let you search a little before giving you the answer... (see end of the article).

Voir en taille réelle

For the aperitif, head to Mikkeller, where we then sampled several Danish craft beers, before treating ourselves to a delicious fish meal (finally) at Barbara Fish House.

Nodradalur, Streymoy island

Before returning our Bou-bou to the airport, we take the old road from Toshavn to Leynar with a small diversions to Nordadalur to enjoy again the landscapes we will soon leave.

Leynar, Streymoy island

Here is our roadtrip ends, thanks to Virginie for the organization of this beautiful trip. It closes on a beautiful note, because we met at the airport Anne & Vincent, acquaintances who thanks to this return trip will become very good friends... We had to meet by chance in the Faroes so that we could take the time to get to know each other better and discover our common passions for travel and images. We look forward to seeing you again, friends, see you soon!

• Fog, wind & sheep... a breath of fresh air guaranteed ! •

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→ the essentials in your bag

For a trip to the Faroe Islands you need to have in your hiking bag: everything to experience the 3 seasons in one day (for a trip in June, no risk of snow): sun, intense fog, wind & rain! But if you are well equipped... it's only happiness!

• waterproof jacket

• waterproof overtrousers

• gloves, hat, neck warmer

• thermos & picnic

• waterproof walking shoes (and not white ones like Tracy's... as the ground is quite muddy)

• your camera

• a pair of binoculars for bird watching

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→ for a next time if the weather is good...

There are still a lot of places to discover and walk... the weather being very changeable, with a dancing but often omnipresent fog and hiking trails mostly unmarked... We knew that sometimes we had to give up some discoveries... So if the weather allows it, don't hesitate to put on your walking shoes for the following highlights

• The ascent of Slættaratindur, the highest point of the Faroe Islands, reaching 880 m in altitude. It is customary to climb it on 21 June, the summer solstice, to watch the sun set and wait just a few hours for the sun to rise again.

• A day on the island of Mykines, an undisputed paradise for the beautiful puffins.

• The hike to Cape Enniberg, which is located at the northern tip of the island of Vidoy. Its vertical wall, 754 m above the Atlantic, is the second highest promontory in Europe. At its base is the Seyðtorva Arch, which is the northernmost point of the Faroe Islands.

• Hike to the heart-shaped lake, Vatnsdalsvatn, on the island of Vagar.

• The hike to the famous "island rock", Dranganir, the Faroese emblem, which can only be done with a local guide.

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This is the map reference and the only guidebook (in English) dedicated to the Faroe Islands. You will also find a lot of practical information on the official Faroe Islands website: Visit Faroe Islands.

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Did you find Waldo?

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The articles and photos we publish in this blog belong to us, unless otherwise stated, so please don't use them without contacting us first...

Dolomiti • Ciao Veneto & Südtyrol [Italia] ENG

FR | ENG

For the 2nd time this year (and our 3rd roadtrip in total), we are again in the Dolomites but this time in October... This region always attracts us, because there are so many beautiful things to see and do, we never get tired of it. You will tell us: "But you are Swiss, you also have beautiful mountains at home?" It's true, but there is something different in the Dolomites, this Austrian and Italian mix, the good Italian food, the good espresso whether you are in a nice hotel or in a high malga/hütte... and especially these grandiose landscapes between verticality of the rock and forests of fir trees, larches and pines... in short you will have understood... we love this region.

For this 3rd roadtrip, we wanted to come back to some spots we discovered in September 2019 and also discover new valleys and regions. As for the other articles, you will find the stages in the order of our roadtrip by indicating the nights in order to facilitate the creation of your trip. Below the map with the highlights. At the end of this article you will find the links to the other Dolomites roadtrips of September 2019 and June 2021.

→ Venezia [ 3 nights ]

Let's go for 2 weeks in Veneto and Alto Adige. To start our roadtrip direction Venezia! We had been there 10 years ago... but this city is so particular that each visit is always a total wonder.

In this article, we are not going to detail our visit, because we realize that during 3 days we just wandered in the city, passing from a small alley to another, in order to discover the less touristy corners of this city on the water. "Thanks" to the sanitary situation, there were less tourists and the city was pleasant.

Vaporetto n°1

Tip... To do sightseeing on the water at a competitive price compared to the cab boat and the gondolas... We advise you to take the vaporetto n°1 at Piazza Roma, that is to say at the very end of the city, and if possible outside of rush hours, to find a seat at the front of the boat and to continue to the terminus on the Lido island. You will have crossed the entire Grand Canal and seen the Doge's Palace and the docks from the lagoon.... for only 7.50 Euros (valid for 75 minutes).

Rooftop Fondaco dei Tedeschi

If, like us, you are a fan of aerial views of the city... Go to the Rooftop of the chic Fondaco dei Tedeschi store (by the way, the inside of the store is also worth a visit). The access is free but you have to book the time slot because it's only accessible for 15 minutes and with a limited number of people... The Fondaco dei Tedeschi store is at the foot of the Rialto bridge (vaporetto Rialto or Mercato Rialto stop) and here is the link to make your booking.

Acqua Alta

We were lucky enough to witness the phenomenon of Acqua Alta... which has become rarer thanks to the MOSE dykes that have been built at the entrance of the bay of Venice. Of course, the Acqua Alta was not impressive, but it was powerful enough to flood almost the entire San Marco square, the lowest part of Venice. This allowed us to play with the reflections for our pictures with the Basilica and the Campanile.

Hôtel H10 Palazzo Canova

We stayed in this beautiful hotel super central ... a few meters from the Rialto. A beautiful address because everything is quickly accessible on foot whether it is the district of San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, il mercato del Rialto and il Cannaregio with its Ghetto. The decoration all in blue duck, blue sky and mustard ... makes the hotel modern while keeping a muffled and velvety aspect. A little extra, a rooftop terrace... think of booking to have a table in the first row with a view on the Grand Canal and the Rialto and a very pleasant inner courtyard for breakfast. The prices are not given but they often make offers except weekend.

→ Cortina D’Ampezzo [ 3 nights ]

Let's get down to business... after 2h30 of driving we are finally back in the Dolomites and the beautiful Cortina that we discovered in 2019. The thermal shock is however radical because from the sun of Venice to the snow of Cortina there was only one step. But we are ready to discover the surroundings of Cortina during 3 days!

Passo Giau

A pass that we had not had the opportunity to do 2 years ago! This time, it is under the snow and the cold of this beginning of October that we discover this pass and its magnificent landscapes. We are not going to hide it, the wind is strong and the cold is icy... but we are happy to be outside, to brave the elements!

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

This morning, the weather is still quite cloudy... we decide to go to the 3 Cime di Lavaredo, which we had already done in 2019 under a bright sun... but today the weather is cloudier... but above all the snow has covered the summits... so we wanted to see again the emblem of the Dolomites under a white coat... For the description of the hike, I let you read the article from 2019 here.

Croda da Lago & Lago Federa

The sun is back... early but icy departure towards the Lago Federa. We park on the Passo Giau at the Rucurto parking. Then we follow the path n°437, then 434 until the lake... it's a dry climb, but the walk is beautiful through the larches with the view on the Cinque Torri, il Passo Giau, Cortina, il Sorapis, the Tofane and the 3 Cime in the background... Arrived at the lake, we take our time to take some pictures and play with the mirror effect with il Becco di Mezodi We eat outside at the Croda da Lago refuge in the sun... a real moment of pleasure... it changes from the weather of the 2 previous days... we enjoy it.We decide then to go up to Forcella Ambrizola via the path n°434 to get closer to the Becco of Mezodi and to realize the loop of the Croda da Lago via the path n°435. Arrived at the foot of the Becco of Mezodi the view opens on an altipiano... with a beautiful luminosity. Then we meet some Italian hikers who warn us about the practicability of the path n°435 because of the snow. Being well loaded with the photographic material and the tiredness at the level of the legs being nevertheless quite present, we decide to turn back and not to tempt the devil.

It's with regret that we go back down the same way... but a nice surprise is waiting for us, a magnificent light on the Lago de Federa even if completely in the shade, the evening sun illuminating the Becco de Mezodi giving an impressive mirror effect.

San Brite

Two years ago we had spotted it but this year... We anticipated and booked well in advance! What to say about this restaurant with 1 Michelin star... You have to go there to understand, but we were transported gustatively in a walk through the forest... a real trip! We enjoyed the moment without wanting to take pictures of the whole atmosphere... So you just have to discover by yourself, because we recommend it without any hesitation, if you are curious... Book a table at the San Brite.

Lodge Alverà

Back to the wonderful accommodation we discovered in 2019... the Dolomiti Lodge Alverà, a magnificent lodge with only 10 rooms, a breathtaking view of the Tofane, a modern but mountainous style & a divine restaurant... and this year's novelty: a SPA floor with sauna, hamam, resting area and a beautiful heated outdoor pool... welcome after the cold we had to face the first few days in Cortina.

→ San Candido [ 2 nights ]

Second stage in the Dolomites the Val Pusteria. We had already been there in 2019 but in a short stay, so this time it will be 2 nights (it's really a minimum) to discover Prato Piazza, San Candido, Dobbiaco and rediscover the Lago di Braies. From here on we speak German, even if everyone understands Italian... We are no longer in Veneto, but in Süd Tyrol... Grüss Gott!

Prato Piazza

This morning departure for Prato Piazza, a place less known by tourists. We leave by car to reach the parking Prato Piazza! Be careful, this parking is not free (10 euros) and the places are limited... so come early. But don't panic, if the parking lot is full, you can leave the car at the Ponticello parking lot and take the shuttle.

Once parked... it is gone for a magnificent day... the cold stings but it is good to be outside! We take the wide path towards the Rifugio Vallandro... we discover little by little a pretty meadow with mini chalets, which make us think of the Alpe di Siusi in miniature. Arrived at the Rifugio Vallandro, we make a small stop to drink an espresso before beginning the ascent to the Monte Spiece through the pines, a pretty path of excursion n°34 that leaves directly behind the refuge.

Arrived at the top of the Monte Specie at 2300m an imposing sight on the 3 Cime di Lavaredo offers itself to us... we will take the time to make one 10h and to lie down in the meadows to contemplate the sight before going down again and to restore itself to the Almhütte Plätzwiese.

San Candido

San Candido... for me one of the most charming villages of the Dolomites with its bell towers, its completely pedestrian center... it's a pity that we were there on a Sunday, because a lot of shops were closed... we'll come back when it's warmer to enjoy a spritz on the terrace.

Lago di Braies

We had already seen it in 2019, but we wanted to make some new images trying to be less cliché... so here we go! This morning it is really cold... the lake of Braies being literally surrounded by mountains. This year we will not linger on the north shore (the most touristic one) and we will make the tour of the lake and the little climb to Malga Foresta to eat a typical dish and enjoy the sun.

Hôtel Joas

Discovered in 2019, our hotel is not in San Candido itself, but in Versciaco, a village not far away, super cute, with nice chalets at the foot of the ski slopes of the 3 Cime area. Joas Hotel Natura B&B, is modern but surrounded by nature, with a splendid view of the valley.

→ Alta Badia [ 3 nights ]

We left to discover the Alta Badia, after having bypassed Plan de Corones découvert en 2019, we enter the Valle Badia... at the beginning all tight, we felt a little oppressed, then arrived at the height of Badia village, the valley opens and it is a magnificent landscape that rises. We arrive in our accommodation Les Pizades (see below) with the setting sun and a magnificent luminosity on the mountains: Sas dal Crusc, Piz Lavarella & Piz Les Conturines.

Prà de Armentara

The beautiful luminosity of yesterday evening gave way to an overcast and threatening sky... it doesn't matter we get dressed and we go for a walk first in the villages of the surroundings: San Cassiano, La Villa & Badià... then thanks to Sabine's information (cf. below), we go to the parking of Furnacia to restore us 20 minutes later at Ranch da André. Once we were warmed up and fed, we went for a walk in the meadows of Armentara (paths 15A, 15, 18) which, once again, reminded us a little of the Alpe di Siusi... we finished our walk under the snowflakes and happy!

Pralongià

Today we decided to go and discover the high plateau of Pralongià... but in this period all the ski lifts are closed... 2 options: walk or rent a bike! We had difficulties to find a store that still rented bikes... but it's actually in the next village, in San Cassiano, that we found our happiness: at Lagaciò (the store is at the foot of the hotel of the same name... closed at the time of our visit, it must be a nice alternative address for those who want the service of a hotel).

So with our ebikes we go to the Pralongià plateau... first we climb towards Armentarola where we pass in front of "our place" the Pizades, then we climb via the path n°18, 24B, 24A until the highest point at 2109m at the Pralongià refuge. Unfortunately all the refuges on the plateau are closed, but it doesn't matter: picnic in the sun sheltered from the cold wind with a view on the Marmolada glacier which seems to fall on us while it is 2 valleys away! Then we walk towards the Bioch refuge (path n°23) and we go back down towards San Cassiano via path n°22 through the meadows with a view on the mountains. We are glad to have found ebikes because it allowed us to make a loop too long to do in one day by foot. At the end of the day we return our ebikes frozen but happy.

Les Pizades

Les Pizades... a very nice discovery of this trip. Sabine offers us 3 apartments in the family farmhouse completely renovated and modern with all the amenities. The farm is located in Armentarola, surrounded by fields where their cows walk. Sabine offers us bread, eggs and fresh milk from the farm every morning and informs us daily about the weather, the opening/closing of the refuges, the Malgas, the ski lifts and the restaurants in the different villages of the Alta Badià. It is precious especially in October when many begin to close their doors for the break before the high winter season. We can only recommend this beautiful address in a quiet and well located area.

→ Plose [ 2 nights ]

Let's go for the last stage of our road trip, but first we stop for an espresso and a brioche at Panificio Pasticceria Caffé Gasse in La Villa, before starting the climb of Passo delle Erbe.

Passo delle Erbe & Sass de Putia

Stop at the top of the Passo della Erbe after the many sharp turns... we decide to leave in the direction of Munt de Fornella and approach the Sas de Putia. Arrived in 20 minutes at the refuge, it's too early to eat a good typical dish especially after our brioche... so we leave on the path n°8A direction Forcela de Putia. The ascent is difficult but rewarding when we arrive at the top to see the Val Badia from another angle and get closer to the Odle de Eroes. This time we return to the Fornella refuge for a good piece of speck!

Rossalm sull’Plose

Here we are at our last stop...Rossalm, a refuge on the mount Plose... or rather a hotel... because this refuge has all the conveniences of a high hotel. We are conquered first of all by its location... facing the Odle Eores, Odle di Funes, and the Sas de Putia a breathtaking view... but also by the warm welcome of this team! Christoph and Werner took over the refuge just before the pandemic and despite the difficulties with all the health restrictions in Italy, they managed to stay the course and offer a warm and welcoming place. Besides, Werner will always spend a moment with you while his brother is in the kitchen, either to advise you on the activities of the Plose or just to chat with a drink in hand as if we have known each other for a long time. A little extra, their homemade thyme spritz recipe is so delicious it's a killer! You will have understood... a wonderful simple and warm address that we recommend without any restraint.

Monte Gabler

Let's go for the ascent of Monte Gabler... We take the path n°14 "Via Panoramica Dolomiti" which bears its name well until the Gabler Alm then we take the path n°7 until the Mount Gabler at 2576m of altitude. The ascent is a bit difficult because we are loaded like donkeys... between photo equipment and a giant but delicious picnic prepared by the Rossalm! Arrived at the top it is a 360° view which opens all around us with an incredible sharpness today. We distinguish almost all the places visited during our 3 roadtrips: Alpe di Siusi, Seceda, Odle di Funes, Sas de Putia, Torri de Vajoet, Marmolada, Sasso Piato... and much more! We stay all afternoon on the Gabler mountain between nap, picnic, photo session and contemplation of the landscape! In short we enjoy our last afternoon here in front of the grandiose Dolomites.

Bressanone

We are repeating ourselves from the last articles of our travels in the Dolomites but... it's time to come down from the mountain... it's sad, it's with a heavy heart that we leave these magnificent mountains, but to come back again and again! We make a last stop in Bressanone... this small town is still a nice surprise with its pedestrian center, its cafés and its quiet atmosphere! We take the opportunity to do our last shopping for speck and before going back to Switzerland!

• uno Spritz, un pò di speck e uno strudel di mele per favore ! •

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Find our articles on our previous roadtrips in the Dolomites

Dolomiti • Salve Alto Adige & Veneto 1/2

The most famous spots in the Dolomites in September 2019 from Verona to San Candido via Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Dolomiti • Grüss Gott Alto Adige 2/2

The most famous spots in the Dolomites in September 2019 from San Candido to Bolzano via Alpe di Siusi.

Dolomiti • Servus Alto Adige

A small week in June 2021 around the Catinaccio, del Sasso Piatto & del Sasso Lungo.

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Here are the maps we used for this raodtrip, because the Lonely Planet Dolomiti (only in Italian) is really not detailed enough. The Tabacco maps are very precise and useful for off-road walks. They are easily obtainable in sport stores or kiosks.

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The articles and photos we publish in this blog belong to us, unless otherwise stated, so be fair, don't use them without contacting us first...

Far West • California & Nevada road trip [USA] 1/3 ENG

FR | ENG

Beginning of our beautiful road trip adventure in the USA... Which will make us cross California, a small part of Nevada, Utah & finish in beauty under a burning heat in Arizona... But to be honest, we organized this trip because I wanted a "simpler" trip compared to our last adventures in Mongolia, but we were afraid to be disappointed... first of all because we had already seen all these landscapes in magazines or in movies, the crowd of tourists, the American mentality & of course the food... but this trip was way beyond our desires and our expectations... in 1 word : GREAT !

→ DAYS 1 to 3 • San Francisco

Our road trip in the west starts with 3 days in San Francisco... No need to tell you that this city deserves to be visited at least a few days before hitting the road and driving down all those miles... We suggest you to discover it with our "to-do" list & in pictures...

• Union Square... Arrived in the evening, it is the first district that we discover & it is here that our Hotel Zepplin... The district, very central with all the conveniences, is practical but it is not by far the most charming district... There are the big chain stores, a lot of restaurants & hotels and also a lot of beggars... Honestly, there are plenty of other more attractive neighborhoods to stay in on a future visit. However, our hotel was very original & design, although the room was really tiny, and the breakfast delicious. On the other hand, in this area... the famous Cable Cars are omnipresent, not to be missed under any circumstances: the Cable Car hub at Powell Station.

• Cable Cars & son museum... This is the only thing Tracy remembers about her first trip to SF when she was 5 years old with her parents... Mythical is the word! 30 years later... As soon as you get on it, the feeling of being a kid on a merry-go-round is back... and on top of that you discover SF quietly... we love it! There are three different lines, a trip will cost you 7 $, it's not cheap, so to take advantage of the trip here are some advices: try to get on at the end of a line to cover a maximum of the trip and to have the best seats... but there are sometimes many many many people... so you have 2 options: come very early in the morning or later in the evening (with the evening lights it's very nice, sun setting through the streets and the lights of the city start to light up) or get on the way if there is still room even standing, the price will be the same but no line...

  In the Union Square area, don't miss the turntable at Powell Street: the drivers, always by 2, jump off the Cable Car to make it turn on a wooden platform in order to make it go back the other way. These small urban trains will have no more secrets for you & especially it allows to admire the cables which pull the 3 different lines... In fact everything starts from here... Impressive & deafening!

• Alamo Square & Hayes Valley... efinitely this neighborhood is our favorite... all these Victorian houses and all the other picturesque houses in this area made us want to settle down... In addition the district of Hayes is filled with small cafés too "chou"... the small more was to ride in electric scooter Lime... with 2 on the same one, it was sport but so ludic... we still do not return from having traversed the streets of SF like that... (almost dangerous)...

• Limebike... one word GENIUS... a concept that is also coming to Switzerland ... Lime is a network of bicycles (nothing very innovative so far) and electric scooters for rent... The mega plus of this concept is that these scooters can be found anywhere in the street... To start : you just have to download the application on your smartphone, introduce your credit card, have a 3G network or wifi (there is a free wifi in SF but not always available) and your smartphone battery well filled... That's all... Then you just have to find a scooter in the street thanks to the map in the application that geolocates the available and charged scooters... Once in front of your future scooter scan the QR code and off you go... (⚠️ don't move a scooter without delocking it with your smartphone... because it will start screaming and threaten to call the police... experience made 😝 because I was looking to get closer to a wifi network)... once you arrived at your destination, you delock and leave your scooter almost anywhere according to your common sense... to be tested absolutely!

• Chinatown... Honestly parr our way, there is nothing to see... it is by far not the most impressive Chinatown that we have seen... there are only small stores without soul and without consistency, only bad gadgets... After Bangkok it is difficult to compete.

• North Beach… The Italian district... This district can be spotted by the green-white-red flag paintings on all the signposts in the streets... we had dinner at Acquolina, chatting in Italian with the waiters, in French and in German with our Swiss-German tablemates... a very nice moment... take the time to stroll in this district at the end of the day to drink the Italian aperitivo... "un Spritz per favore!"

• Fisherman's Wharf... The star of this district which is indeed a line of piers filled with restaurants, souvenir stores & museums, is Pier 39 or rather The Pier 39... where sea lions have taken up residence... they are there next to the passers-by basking in the sun or doing a pseudo fight show... I found it hypnotizing... the other particularity of the district not to be missed a little further on Taylor street & if you are a fan of crab and seafood, go to the Fisherman's Wharf Carb Stands... beware however of the seagulls always ready to steal your meal directly from your hands!

• Lombard Street… A street of eight hairpins & full of charm on the slopes of one of the many hills of SF was built to allow the inhabitants to climb the 27% difference in altitude... Only big problem: the horde of tourists who take selfies or drive down the street as if it was a merry-go-round... We pity the inhabitants... But the view of this small street from far or near is still worth the detour.

• Golden Gate Bridge... the STAR of San Francisco! The bridge whose name comes from the gold rush in the Sierra Nevada, was inaugurated in 1937, is 2.6 km long and overhangs the bay by 67 m, it contains 1 million tons of steel and 129'000km of cables... 25 painters work all year long to renovate it... The purpose of the paint is indeed to protect the steel from rust facilitated by the salt contained in the air & the color is called international orange (Pantone 180)... So much for the official info! You can cross the bridge on foot, by bike or by car... (beware of the toll if you enter SF)... but for me the walk towards Crissy Field with a view on the bridge is more fun than the crossing itself. To get to the Golden Gate Bridge from downtown, take the 28 bus, it's the closest to the bridge, then if you're lucky, try to find an electric scooter and you're free!

• Apple Park... Marc being literally a big FAN of Apple... we couldn't avoid making a small detour to Cupertino, to go to the visitor center of Apple Park and be as close as possible to the Apple world: virtual visit, apple store, café, panoramic terrace.

In 3 days there are obviously many things and places that we did not have time to see... here is our little list for a next visit...

• The climb of the Coit Tower early in the morning to avoid the queue and to enjoy a great view of all SF

• A guided night visit to Alcatraz to feel the chills again

• A walk to the Marine Headlands to see the Golden Gate Bridge & San Francisco from the other side of the bay, it is said to be the most beautiful view in SF

• The Catsro, SF's gay district

  Here is an overview of this magnificent city, the most European of the USA... now let's hit the road to the west...

→ DAY 4 • Groveland

[ 198 miles • 4h00 via Cupertino ]

Groveland, a small village with a typical American Wild West look... Arrived at the end of the day with the last rays of sun on Main Street & after a short walk in the little town... We chose the Iron Door Saloon to soak up a little more of the local atmosphere... The saloon is the oldest in California, has original steel doors to protect the inhabitants from a possible fire and the ceiling is covered with banknotes stuck in projectiles mode... We feel good there and the meat is delicious... this road trip in the west starts very well... We stayed just next door in the very very charming Groveland Hotel... a lovely surprise!

This small village is ideally located on the west side of Yosemite Park. Our basic itinerary would have led us to discover Yosemite on day 5 & cross the Sierra Nevada via the Tioga Pass (3031m). Unfortunately, the pass was still closed when we passed through (it opened the following weekend... lack of boll)... we had to, with a lot of regret, bypass Yosemite and take the Sonora Pass... to reach Lee Vining! You will find all the access information below.

You will find practical information about access & roads on the website of National Parc Service.

Iron Door Saloon
18761 Main St
Groveland
CA 95321

Groveland Hotel
18767 Main St
Groveland
CA 95321

→ DAY 5 • Lee Vining

[ 215 miles • 4h30 via Sonora pass ]

Even if we had to change our itinerary because of the winter closure of the Tioga pass... the Sonora pass was a very nice mountain road to pass the Sierre Nevada... With beautiful granite landscapes.

Arrived on the other side of the Sierre Nevada, we made a small detour by Bodie State Historic Park... a mining town frozen in the time of the gold rush... we are in the GOLDEN GATE STATE!!!

We decided to sleep in Lee Vining to enjoy the sunrise on the Mono Lake... so, to spend a nice evening in this very small village without much soul, go to Epic Café where the welcome with a strong accent ("soup or salad" or "super salad"... ???), the garden and the dishes are at the top...

Hôtel Lake View Lodge
51285 Highway 395
Lee Vining
CA 93541

Epic Café
349 Lee Vining Avenue
Lee Vining
CA 93541

The Mono lake is a salt lake with a salt content 2,5 times higher than the oceans... The particularity of this lake are the numerous limestone formations which rise above the level of the lake...They are called tuff towers... Go early in the morning and to the south of the lake to see the most beautiful landscapes and walk through all these tufs :)

On the way to Death Valley... a short stop at the Hot Creek geological site: hot springs, fumaroles and turquoise waters. We also wanted to discover the Devils Postpile National Monument, 60 m high basalt columns, but they were still closed for the winter when we visited at the end of May.

→ DAYS 6 & 7 • Death Valley

[ 228 miles • 4h00 via  Hway 395, 136 & 190  ]

Here are the great desert landscapes... the valley of death... arriving from Lee Vining, after the fork in the Hway 136, the landscape starts to change drastically to leave place to the desert and a burning heat! Moreover the road goes up and down... The car sometimes shows some signs of weakness...

Little advice: don't forget to take a lot of water! 

Our Hotel, Furnace Creek Resort, is located in the very center of Death Valley with all the "attractions" only a few miles away. Small plus of this hotel with a colonial style, the swimming pool... welcome in the middle of the day when the temperatures are not bearable otherwise. Indeed, to make the most of your stay in Death Valley, you should plan to get up early to enjoy the magnificent morni

• Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes... A nice walk through the dunes... (yes, Tracy has a fascination for the dunes... that's how Marc was convinced to come and get hot!) to be done preferably in the morning to avoid the heat that rises very quickly!

• Artist's Palette... Here we feel like at the Color Run... Colorful spots on the ground and on the sides of the mountain... Green, purple, pink & turquoise... It's crazy what nature can offer us as a show! To get there, make a 15km loop from Badwater road... Ideally to do at the end of the day to have the sun rays on all these colors!

• Badwater Road... Hway 178 to go to have access to different viewpoints, it's a very beautiful road & even more when the storm threatens...

• Badwater... The lowest point of the USA at -84m below sea level... here it can be very very hot, a real furnace... The salt marsh is not as beautiful as in Uyuni in Bolivia, but the landscape is still worth the trip... It is best to do it at the end of the day (but be careful with the heat) to have a better exposure to the sun... because we were there in the morning and the basin was still in the shade.

• Zabriskie Point... A magnificent point of view to be done at sunrise to see the formations light up one after the other...

→ DAY 8 • Springdale via Las Vegas

[ 118 miles • 2h10 Las Vegas + 163 miles • 2h45 Springdale  ]

Direction Zion national park... but on the way, we couldn't miss Las Vegas... Honestly we were not excited to spend time in Las Vegas in the middle of our road trip in the nature... But the extravagance of the place was in fact fascinating... Not to be missed: the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas" sign, the Bellagio hotel, the Paris Las Vegas & of course playing at the casino... After this day, we would have liked to add a night in Las Vegas to discover it in light ... At the Bellagio of... Next time!

See the continuation of our roadtrip in Utah

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USA • Utha & Navarjo Lands

Continuation of our adventures in the west of the USA with the discovery of Utah & the Navajo country... A region full of beautiful national parks.... Honestly we could spend months and months there..

USA • Arizona

Continuation and end of our western adventures in the magnificent state of Arizona... pffffff it's been hot...

Far West • Utah & Navajo Lands road trip [USA] 2/3 ENG

FR | ENG

Continuation of our adventures in the west of the USA with the discovery of Utah & the Navajo country... A region full of beautiful national parks.... Honestly we could spend months and months there..

→ DAY 8 • Springdale via Las Vegas

[ 118 miles • 2h10 Las Vegas - 163 miles • 2h45 Springdale  ]

Springdale gives off an atmosphere that we liked right away... We arrived at the gates of Zion National Park... Yes, there are lots of hotels, restaurants and tourists everywhere but the atmosphere is nice, relaxed & sporty... We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express... Nothing exceptional, but all the buildings of the small town seem to respect a certain height & color and blend completely in the red ochre canyon of Zion... For dinner, I recommend you to go to Bit & Spur, a saloon with a Mexican-inspired cuisine and a nice terrace in the back with a view on the canyon cliffs...

Before talking about the national park, let's talk about prices... If you are going to visit 3 or more national parks (be careful, the "Stats Park" are not included), you have to get at the entrance of the first park you visit  "The Beautiful Pass" for a value of $80 valid for one year & transferable to 2 people... it's ideal & really profitable!

Zion National Park... Honestly a nice surprise... It is really a park which is often put aside in the "tours" which propose the agencies in Switzerland or on the catalogs of trips... We do not understand, because it is magnificent .... our bus driver... Because yes in the park it is forbidden to take its car (and so much better, otherwise that would be infernal), told us that Zion had passed to the 3rd rank of the most visited national parks in the USA! It's understandable, considering the number of hikes - walks - activities you can find in the park.

So you'll understand... to get the most out of it, you have to get up early to avoid the crowd, be the first at the bus stop and avoid the wait, be alone on the different hikes and especially to be able to do several in one day if your time is limited... Unfortunately like us!

 We did 3 hikes in one day:

• Emerald pool Trail followed directly by the Kayenta Trail... An easy hike that brings us to the 3 waterfalls: Lower, Middle & Upper Emerald Pool, and makes us discover a thick and climbing vegetation... and that's exactly what we really liked in Zion... These red cliffs and this vegetation which seems to want to cover it by climbing on it. The Kayenta Trail allows to follow the Virgin River in height and to admire views on the whole canyon. (bus stop n°5 pick up at n°6)

• The Narrows... A walk... Followed by a walk at the bottom of the canyon... after about 20 minutes of walking... the path gives way to the river, let's go for the adventure... but to be able to do it, you have to rent waterproof shoes at the entrance of the park allowing you to walk in the rather cold water of the Virgin River... (last bus stop n° 9)

• Angels Landing... Unfortunately we did not have the time to do this walk which is said to be magnificent because it allows to reach a promontory with a view over the whole canyon... The walk is quite difficult and lasts about 4 hours for 8.6km with more than 400m of difference in height (those who suffer from vertigo should not do it)... Next time I hope so!

As mentioned in our 1st article "Far West - california & the nevada road trip", in addition to adding a night in Las Vegas we would have very willingly added a night in Zion... And probably removed a night in Bryce (see next step) in order to be able to do the Angels Landing walk... because according to us, a big half-day would be enough in Bryce to discover the amphitheater properly, while in Zion the possibilities seem endless...

After a late picnic in Springdale... Departure to discover one of the most beautiful roads of our trip the Mount Carmel Road... A scenic road paved in red-ochre to match the cliffs of Zion National Park. This road from Springdale to Bryce winds its way through the canyon and offers some amazing views. Just after the one-way tunnel (direction Bryce), stop on the right at the small parking lot, to make a last walk: the Canyon Overlook Trail... do you think the view is worth it?

It is really late when we leave Zion with a point of regret... But the adventure continues direction Bryce...

→ DAYS 9 & 10 • Bryce Canyon

[ 82 miles • 1h45  ]

Our day yesterday made us knocked out... This time we didn't get up at dawn, because the weather was overcast and we were very tired... After a mediocre breakfast at the Best Western of Bryce Village (atmosphere much less nice than Springdale... more reason to make 2 nights in Springdale and 1 night in Bryce), departure to discover this amphitheater.

Then even if we are not there at the sunrise, we begin by the Sunrise point... Whouaaaa... The first sight on the amphitheater and its multitudes of Hoodoos is impressive... Moreover the cold of duck is also impressive... For me it will be a down jacket, mini gloves and ear muffs... Yes yes, it's curling! The coolest thing with this super changeable weather sun - rain - cloud - sun - cloud - rain... At each passage of clouds, the sun re-illuminates the amphitheater or only a part of it... so we wait for this show with impatience to discover the magnificent colors.

We decide then to leave to the assault of hoodoos and to go down in the heart of the amphitheater by the Queen's Garden Trail followed by the Navajo Loop Trail in order to join the Sunset point... the descent is easy and pleasant, we observe every hoodoos, we wait for the clearings... a real spectacle... the ascent was however a little bit more strong... with its way in laces... but magnificent nevertheless!

In one full day, it is possible to see all the other viewpoints: Inspiration point & Bryce Point... we wouldn't know which one is the most beautiful... each time the view is breathtaking!

If we had to stay again in Bryce, we would choose without hesitation The Lodge At Bryce Canyon, located in the national park a few meters from the amphitheater & surrounded by vegetation. If the budget doesn't allow it... at least go to their restaurant for a mountain atmosphere followed by a little walk along the amphitheater... We were lucky enough to take the walk accompanied by a herd of bambis... They were really not afraid of us... it was magic!

→ Days 11 & 12 • Moab

[ 265 miles • 5h00 via Hway 12 & 24  ]

It's a long stage, because we decided to drive on Highway 12, which makes the road a bit longer... But we were not disappointed... this road of Utah winds through so many different landscapes... Canyons, ridges, petrified dunes... so if your western tour takes you from Bryce to Moab or vice versa... Without any hesitation, take this route via Escalante, Boulder, Torrey & Capitol Reef National (Highway 24). We unfortunately did not visit the latter because it was raining (the only drops of the whole trip) but just crossing it via Hwy 24...It was very beautiful!

Arrived at the end of the day in Moab...The temperature has clearly risen since our departure from Bryce... Here we are in the desert and that feels! We discover finally our "glamping" with our tent all equipped...Under Canvas : a "luxury" camping with all the conveniences but which pays attention to its impact on nature and its water consumption... I find the charm of the safari tents of our road trip in Namibia in the middle of the USA... I love it! (only drawback of this camp, the proximity of the 191 road... according to the wind we hear it too much, really a pity)... Under Canvas has other camps in Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Zion... Without any doubt, we would stay there during a future road trip in the USA!

After a very cold night... Our day starts at dawn, because we only have one whole day in Moab... & honestly it's NOT enough, because there is so much to do and see here!

But to start us off right, this morning we planned a helicopter flight (early birthday present for Marc)...  A way to have a nice first view of this landscape. So we met at 6:30 am at the Canyonlands airport for a flight with Pinnacle Helicopters... Ben, our pilot, installs us in his R44 (Marc is in the paradise...) and it is left for a flight of 45 minutes with a sun which starts to illuminate all the landscape: Dead Horse Point, the Colorado river, Potash Ponds & Island in Sky of the Canyon Lands National Park... In short we take a lot of eyes & we are happy to have got up at dawn... We let you discover the landscapes without adding other comments!

This flight gave us even more desire to discover all these parks and these breathtaking landscapes... So we went first to the Dead Horse Point State Park be careful, here the "Beautiful Pass" does not work)... But you absolutely have to go there to see the view of the river below that we just flew over... Colorado Gooseneck & the Potash Ponds!

Our journey continues towards Canyonlands National Park... This park is composed of 3 parts : Island in The Sky, The Neddles & The Maze... we explored the Island in The Sky, until the Grand View Overlook... Small picnic with an impressive view... We feel really tiny in front of this immensity... Can you find me on the picture 😅?

The heat becoming overwhelming... we decide to make a small nap in our glamping before taking again the road at the end of the afternoon to finally discover the Arches National Park... But even at 5 pm, the heat remains hardly bearable... We decide to make first a small walk towards Landscape Arch, then on the road of the return a stop at Skyline Arch... impressive and magnificent with this luminosity of the end of day. But considering the temperatures, we shall not make the walk towards Delicate Arch... we shall see it from far from Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint... It is a pity, we are a little disappointed, but we do not take the risk! We finish our day by a photo session... It is really what we love in our trips, "to waste time" to make photos, to wait for the good light, to scrutinize the hidden animal or to wait simply that the other tourists leave to take advantage of the site only for us... So we went to the Window Section where we found many arches not far from each other: Double Arch, North & South Arches...

This marathon day, we can say it, will have been so rich... I keep a magnificent memory of it and I can only advise to plan 2 to 3 days more in Moab in order to be able to take advantage of all these parks and all the proposed activities (4x4, rafting, mountain bike,...).

→ DAYS 13 & 14 • Monument Valley [navajo lands]

[ 146 miles • 2h30 ]

After a good night under tent in our pretty glamping in Moab... we left for a day road trip... 2 options are offered to us before taking the direction of Monument Valley: to return to Arches National Park and to make the walk towards Delicate Arch that we had not had courage to make the evening before because of the heat or to go to try to see Potash Ponds more closely... we choose the 2nd option a little more out of the beaten tracks... thus on the road on Potash Road n°279...

During all the 1st part, we go along the Colorado river of a brown-green color, then we arrive at the factory...  In fact it is a mine of KCl... The water of the ponds is artificially tinted in blue to accelerate the evaporation and thus the formation of crystals of KCl. Unfortunately, there is no possibility of making a visit of the site, it is a pity... We decide then to continue the road which becomes more and more sportive... (if you don't have a 4x4 don't drive!!!) to finally arrive at the edge of ponds...

After a lunch break in the small town of Moab and put back of my road emotions... yes, the road until the ponds is really bumpy especially the last part... Direction Monument Valley! The road is quite long and monotonous, we cross almost deserted cities... So to motivate ourselves, we put on the music in our Dodge which is a little bit soft, we must say! On the way we see the Mexican Hat, a rock in the shape of sombrero, then we make a stop at the Forest Gump Point... but the sun being in front of us and not yet low enough, we decide to come back the morning of our departure to benefit from the light in our back illuminating the whole road.

We arrive in the late afternoon in the country of the Navarjos, located in Utah & mainly in Arizona but be careful, here we keep the time of Utah! Honestly, we were a little bit apprehensive, because we had planned 2 nights and I had had some negative feedbacks... "too many tourists", "it's only 3 blocks of rocks", "we're bored"... anyway for us, it was a wonderful stage...

it is true that as soon as we arrived... we see the big building of the View Hotel et son parking, and there we tear up a little... but good, we park the car to go to the reception and there directly under our eyes we discover the 3 hills... we understand better the site of the hotel and of course its name... no other word than "magnificent" with this light of end of day!

To avoid being in a concrete block, I had reserved the cabin belonging to the hotel... at the time of the reservation, I was a little skeptical, but what a joy to discover these fully equipped cabins, away from the main building and parking... But with the same view !

For our 2 mornings spent in Monument Valley... we woke up at dawn to find the good spot... but not need to go very far, we take possession of a big rock, not far from our cabin and very close to the beginning of the Valley Loop Drive...  We spent hours there to take photos, to contemplate the spectacle & to make stagings of cowboy... it was great, we were alone with 2 or 3 other photographers... No noise just us and the nature... (except during the 2nd morning... an invasion of Japanese at 6 am which lasted hardly 3 minutes... that surprised us & also made us laugh!)

After a breakfast... Let's go for the Valley Loop Drive... (Be careful, you must have a 4x4 or at least an elevated car... If you don't have one, you'll have to sign up for a tour organized and directed by the Navajos on board their big open jeeps... But be careful, you will swallow a lot of dust).

We are in full western... the track is nevertheless rather well maintained, we take our time to make all the loop and to benefit from every point of view... The main attraction is the John Ford's Point, favorite place of the director of the same name. At this place you can wait patiently that the Navajo takes his horse and puts himself in pose on the promontory... and with some $ you will be able to go up yourself on the horse... hihhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaa!!!

In the afternoon we wanted to go for a horseback ride to immortalize even more the feeling of being a real cowboy in the Wild West... But unfortunately the wind came up and an impressive sandstorm formed, forcing us to take refuge in our pretty cabin...

Before our departure for Arizona... We returned in the beginning of morning to the Forest Gump Point, in 13 miles of Monument Valley on the hway 163 in direction of Bluff... Where Forest decided to stop running... The view is beautiful with this straight road and the buttes in the background... But BEWARE of the cars passing at full speed threatening the tourists who put themselves in the middle of the road to have the best shot... 

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USA • California & Nevada

Beginning of our beautiful road trip adventure in the USA... Which will make us cross California, a small part of Nevada, Utah & finish in beauty under a burning heat in Arizona... But to be honest, we organized this trip because I wanted a "simpler" trip compared to our last adventures in Mongolia, but we were afraid to be disappointed... first of all because we had already seen all these landscapes in magazines or in movies, the crowd of tourists, the American mentality & of course the food... but this trip was way beyond our desires and our expectations... in 1 word : GREAT !

USA • Arizona

Continuation and end of our western adventures in the magnificent state of Arizona... pffffff it's been hot...

Namibia • Pure change of scenery [Namibia] ENG

FR | ENG

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Looking for a new destination for your vacations? We propose you an overview of this magnificent country, Namibia, land of wide open spaces, lunar landscapes and wild animals! A treat for your eyes...

On board your 4x4 (check your tires before leaving the rental agency) in self-drive and equipped with a map (no GPS, otherwise it would be too simple and not enough adventure), you are ready to discover this magnificent country. You will drive through breathtaking landscapes, villages lost in the middle of nowhere and go in search of the BIG 5 during your safaris in Etosha Park.

→ Kalahari Desert

South of Windhoek begins the Kalahari Desert, the first immersion in the African bush after a day in the small, almost European capital. The desert which extends over a part of Namibia, South Africa and Botswana covers an area of 900'000 km2, you will already be impressed by these vast, colorful and so sparsely populated landscapes.

The Kalahari Red Dune Lodge is a nice address to recommend with its semi-solid tents, its terraces in camouflage mode to protect yourself from the heat and also to be as discreet as possible in order to observe a maximum of animals that would come to quench their thirst at the watering hole right in front of your room.

→ Nambi Naukluft Nationa Park & Sossusvlei

Next stop and not the least, the Nambi Naukluft Nationa Park & Sossusvlei. Before arriving there, you will leave the well paved roads, to finally join the tracks which you will not leave any more until Etosha. The desert road or almost crosses mountainous landscapes and the Tsaris Pass before leaving gradually the place to sand and dunes.

Sossus Dune Logde, the only lodge inside the Nambi Naukluft Nationa Park is composed of eco-friendly rooms in an African style, built with wooden frames, canvas for the walls and topped with a thatched roof. The best thing about this beautiful place is that you can access Sossusvlei and its famous dunes before sunrise (while all the other tourists living outside the Park have to wait for the gates to open after dawn!)

Sossuvlei... There are no words to describe these majestic landscapes... dunes up to 200m high and dry lakes. 

Dead Vlei is a magnificent sight with its petrified, dead trees embedded in the dry lake overlooked by the huge Big Daddy Dune. Dune 45 (45km from Sesreim) is breathtakingly beautiful... To climb it at sunset, the view will be even more magnificent with its glowing colors... And if you are lucky, you will see an oryx roaming through the dunes.

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→ Swakopmund

On your way back from Sesreim... Don't forget to refuel in Solitaire... Yes, there is a place with this name... And it is very well named! I warned you! The road to Swakopmund is also splendid and varied... You will take the Gaub Pass and its tight and winding road, then you will start the long crossing of the desert before arriving at the Atlantic Ocean, at Walis Bay and will continue your road, invaded by the sand of the surrounding dunes, by following the coast until Swapomund.

From Swakopmund, you can make a day trip along the Skeleton Coast (boats stranded on the sand) to the north to Cape Cross... Be careful, sensitive noses should not be involved... But it would be a shame to miss this show: a huge colony of sea lions with babies, big males and their harems.

→ Damarland

Then back inland to the Damarland, here the landscape changes completely between mountain and desert. It is much warmer than on the coast and the fog is no longer present. On the way you will meet many farmers with their cattle... and with a lot of luck wild animals in total freedom.

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Dora! Nawas Lodge is a warmly welcoming address, situated in the Aba-Huab River valley with a splendid view from the roof of the main building over the Etendeka mountain and the red stone hills of Twyfelfontein. The spacious rooms allow you to shower in privacy on the balcony and take out the king-size bed to sleep under the stars with all the comforts! 2 great things to do in the area: the visit of Twyfelfonteinst one of the largest African cave art gallery registered in the UNESCO world heritage and a safari in search of desert elephants in complete freedom.

→ Etosha National Park

Last big step of this tour: the Etosha National Park. A 22'000km2 game reserve including the Etosha Pan. With your own rental car, a picnic lunch and enough water, go in search of the different waterholes to discover an incredible wildlife... No need to be accompanied by a ranger, the animals will come to you... herds of zebra, wildebeest, impala, oryx, elephants... Warthogs, giraffes and if you are lucky lions & rhinos! It's like coming straight out of Disney's Lion King!

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Andersson's Camp is located in the Ongava Private Game Reserve next to the Andresson Gate of Etosha National Park. This camp, ideally located, is authentic with its small tents with balcony and its special shower, its outdoor lounge with view on the animals and its underground passage allowing to go in an invisible way next to the water point to see and hear the animals drinking! The highlight being to be a few centimeters away from a white rhino & a black rhino and its young drinking... MAGIC!!!

There is still a lot to see in this magical country like the Fish River Canyon, the Victoria Falls, Swakopmund, Walis Bay, the Waterberg Palteau Park, the Caprivi Strip... We will come back for sure!

 • So what are you waiting for? Let yourself be tempted •