Here is our 2nd trip of the year 2022 through islands, after the Faroe Islands in June, we are this time much further south in September ... Kalimera the Cyclades!
Below, you will find the map of the Cyclades and the 3 islands we chose to visit... This is not an exhaustive choice, because each one has its particularities and its charms. We started with Santorini, because there is a direct flight from Geneva and we still wanted to see once in our life this beautiful volcanic island despite the mass tourism. We then continued our journey via ferry to Milos, with its lunar landscape and colorful fishing villages. Serifos, secret and beautiful, will be our last Cycladic stop before reaching the boiling Athens.
-> santorin [4 nights]
It is with apprehension that we land in Santorini... Why did we give in to mass tourism? Are we really going to enjoy this step? A lot of questioning when we arrived, but after 3 days spent on this magnificent volcanic island, here are the advices we can give you: come out of season, get off the beaten track, don't stay focused on the tourist spots, because there are plenty of beautiful pearls to discover, and get up early to enjoy the spots without "almost" anyone.
Fira
Fira, the main town of the island, is our first encounter with the typical landscape of Santorini: a white village clinging to the side of the cliff overlooking the Caldera, the crater of the volcano. The view is spectacular, with these rocky cliffs, the blue of the sea and these white villages. One piece of advice to take full advantage of the view and to stroll quietly in its pretty streets, come early, before 10 am before the horde of tourists from the ferries arrives.
Pyrgos
Here is one of our favorite villages, Pyrgos is located on the highest part of the island, it has a quiet animation, with its bars and restaurants. We appreciate its views over the whole island of Santorini and strolling through its narrow streets.
emporiou
A village not to be missed... A little secret, even intimate with this mixture of white, blue and orange colors which gives all its particularity and its graphic lines that we like. Not to be missed under any circumstances, a stop at the small traditional café, To Kafenedaki Tou Emporiou, where we could taste local specialties... A delight suspended in time and sheltered from mass tourism.
perissa beach
We couldn't do without a trip to the beach. We chose the long black sand beach of Perissa to bask in the sun... But Santorini has other beaches on the southern part of the island like: Red Beach, White Beach and other black sand beaches like Vlychada and Perivolos.
Oia
The most famous village of Santorini, Oia (pronounced ia), but also one of the most touristic. We decided not to visit Oia in the evening at sunset but to prefer the dawn. The village was "almost empty" with a pinkish hue in the sky. After wandering around the village, enjoying the view of the windmills and watching the sun rise, we take advantage of this moment to have a coffee and a Greek yogurt at Vitrin Cafe. When private shootings of women dressed in flying red dresses appear, it's time to leave, with beautiful images in our heads.
walk fira-oia
If there is a walk to do on Santorini, it is the one from Fira to Oia. However, staying just north of Imerovigli on the way of the hike (see chapter "where to stay"), we followed the path in the evening from our hotel (Caldera's Memories) to Fira (about 1h30 round trip) and a second time at dawn to Oia (about 4h round trip). This second part is the wildest and allows you to walk along the whole edge of the Caldera. Be careful though, it can be very hot, almost no shade on the path and the black stone accentuates this feeling. Don't forget to hang a drink, to wear a hat, to put sun cream and of course to admire the view all along the way. To avoid walking back, you can also take the bus directly back to Fira.
Imerovigli & Skaros rock
Not far from our hotel is the chic Imerovigli, more intimate than Fira and Oia, here is a place of peace and quiet facing an incredible view at sunset. Not to be missed, the walk to the Skaros Rock below the village, and to enjoy a sunset almost alone, we continued our journey to the charming Mother of Lord Theskepasti church below the rock.
Where to stay | where to eat
Thanks to Virgine's advice, we stayed at Caldera’s Memories at the first part of Imerovigli on the hiking trail from Fira to Oia, without breaking our piggy bank. This comfortable hotel has a magnificent view on the Caldera and Oia in the distance, the welcome is very warm and the à la carte breakfast is delicious... the only drawback is that there is no bar or restaurant, which is a pity because we would have appreciated to have an aperitif and to admire the sunset in this intimate place with this magnificent view.
If there is one restaurant not to be missed during your trip to Santorini it is Five Senses in Imerovigli. The view of the Caldera and Skaros Rock, the location, the decoration, but most of all the quality of the food transported us in a gustatory delight... an authentic last evening on Santorini.
You will have understood, despite our apprehensions about mass tourism, we do not regret these few days on Santorini to discover its villages and its viewpoints.
-> milos [ 4 Nights ]
After a 2 hour ferry ride, we disembark at the beautiful port of Adamas, on the island of Milos. After picking up our white Panda 4x4, nicknamed White Dunkey, we follow our host to our accommodation in Fourkovouni. It is a completely different island that we discover, more quiet, certainly tourist, but we have this impression to have really arrived in Greece.
Fishermen's villages
Milos is known for its many fishing villages with colorful houses, the Syrmata. Just take your car and drive to the north of the island to Klima, Fyropotamos and Mandrakia to enjoy the view. Do not miss a meal at Medusa in Mandrakia to taste a sun-dried octopus.
Sarakiniko
Welcome to the moon... or on a meringue... the choice is yours! Sarakiniko on the northern coast of Milos is a place with amazing white volcanic rock formations, kaolinite, polished by winds and waters for millions of years. The place attracts a lot of people, but it is worth the detour and allows for lounging and swimming (when the sea is not too rough) via the very small beach at the bottom of the channel.
Milos has other beautiful beaches to visit: in the north the magnificent beach of Plathiena and its pretty hut and in the south-east of Milos the beaches such as Fyriplaka, Tsigrado, Gerakas... It only remains to choose the one you prefer... We especially enjoyed our semi-private cove in Fourkovouni.
Plaka & Adamas
The main village of Plaka, is a concentrate of the Cycladic ideal with its winding streets, white houses, cafes and typical restaurants. Come here in the evening for the sunset from the Kastro, on the hill at the top of Plaka. Don't miss a breakfast at Palaios coffee & Pastry and a dinner at Archontoula in the heart of the village. At the port of Adamas, we particularly enjoyed the restaurant Kynigos served by the old owner who showed us some nice specialties.
where to stay
For this 2nd stage, we stay in a Syrmata, in the small bay of Fourkovouni, welcome to Capt. Nikolas. t is an experience to live, because the house is 100% ecological, powered exclusively by solar panels and with a gravity water system. We loved the place, the intimacy, the private bay, but we don't recommend room n°II, prefer room n°I despite the fact that the sanitary facilities are outside or if you stay a week, break your piggy bank to rent the whole Syrmata just next door, The Cove Beach House.
-> serifos [ 4 Nights ]
After a 1 hour ferry ride, we disembark at the port of Livadi, here we go for 4 nights on the pretty and intimate Serifos, we are far from mass tourism and it feels good... So after getting our mini coach (3rd white dunkey of the trip), we are ready to slow down the pace.
chora
The magnificent perched village of the island of Serifos. We see it as soon as we arrive at the port of Livadi and attracts us like a magnet. We enjoy strolling through its narrow streets, its mini squares with its cafes and its many stairs to the castle. Take the time to stroll and get lost in its alleys... come early in the morning, late in the evening or even during the day... and just enjoy.
beaches
All around the island you will find beautiful beaches, the most beautiful of our stay without a doubt. Just rent a car and follow the circular road with your bathing suit, a picnic and your laundry and off you go: Agios Ammos Bay, Psilis Ammos Bay, Platys Gialos Bay, Sikamia Beach, Paralia Skala, Ganema Bay, Vagia Bay? chapter "where to stay") Agios Sostis Bay... wild, intimate, with a small church so as not to forget that we are in the Cyclades.
Island tour
Besides the beautiful beaches, you will find other sights all around the island. The Taxiarchon monastery in the north of the island and the iron mine ruins in the south of the island.
where to stay | where to eat
In Serifos, we wanted to stay at the Coco Mat Serifos in the bay of Vagia, but for this last week of September, it was already closed. Finally it is at the Hôtel Rize that we put our bags. A nice discovery because better placed, a few minutes from the lively port of Livadi, with a breathtaking view of the Chora of Serifos. We recommend it with closed eyes, because of its location, its warm welcome by all the staff.
In Chora, we discover in the local tavern Marathoriza,offering dishes that we had not yet seen on other menus: stuffed calamari, potato and dill salad, caper salad. In the small church square, there are many cafes and cocktail bars with colorful Greek chairs to try. In Livadi, you will be spoilt for choice, but we have chosen restaurants with fish such as Kali Seafood and Takis.
-> Athens [ 3 Nights ]
We leave the Cyclades with the heavy heart and with a certain apprehension to finish our journey by a big city. But these 2 days in Athens allowed us to visit, to feel, to live, to roam through the center and its numerous historical sites.
Acropolis & Philopappos Hill
Of course, you can't come to Athens without visiting the Acropolis. We decided to come at the end of the day to catch the last rays of sun. Of course, it's crowded but it's a once in a lifetime experience. To see the Acropolis under its best angle, in the middle of nature and in all tranquillity, we advise you to climb the hill of Philopappos in front of it... an incredible 360° view on the whole city.
Panathenaic Stadium
This stadium, "stadium of all Athenians" is an ancient stadium of Athens, renovated for the 1st Olympic Games of the modern era in 1896. Its usual name in Greek, Kallimármaro "of a beautiful marble", refers to the marble with which it is covered. The elongated track is typical of the ancient stadium, about 200m long, with a very tight curve. It is located between two hills covered with pine trees, a beautiful place to imagine the athlete of tomorrow...
Street Art Guided Tour
To discover a more actual Athens, we undertake to participate in a guided tour "Street Art" with Alternative Athens. A great way to explore the neighborhoods with a guide and feel the pulse of the city. We recommend to do this tour at the beginning of your stay, so you can return to the place later.
where to stay
For these 2 days in Athens, the Coco-Mat Athens-Jumelle Hotel is our home base. Located in the business and embassy district, a bit out of the tourist area, it is nevertheless surrounded by several nice restaurants and cafes frequented by locals and travelers alike. Also within walking distance are the Soldier's Monument, Syntagma Square, the Botanical Gardens and the Presidential Grade.
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