We headed to the Far North through the Lofoten Islands in Norway, and for the first time above the Arctic Circle. We travelled through fjords and mountains, bridges and tunnels from Evenes to Å with a small 4x4 car equipped with studded tyres, which is essential in this region in February... let's go!

-> KABELVÅG [ 3 NIGHTS ]

After a direct flight from Zurich to Evenes thanks to the travel agency Kontik, followed by a 2h30 drive from Evenes airport to Kabelvåg, we are finally in the north of Lofoten, ready to discover these fabulous landscapes.

KABELVÅG

A small, pleasant town south of Svolvaer, it has all the necessary amenities and is a good starting point for touring this part of the islands. You will not miss the large church, Vågan kirke, which is known as the cathedral of Lofoten. Built at the very end of the 19th century, it is the second largest wooden church in Norway and seats 1200.

Henningsvær

Take route 816 and lose yourself in the narrow streets of Henningsvær! Probably the most charming village in North Lofoten, with its canals, its fishermen, its codfish hanging everywhere in the village and its houses of all colours: water green, sky blue, pink, orange... Don't miss the famous football field on its rock, surrounded by the sea. We spent the afternoon walking around and waiting for the beautiful light of the sun shaving through the clouds.

“I am a true Lofoten cod because I was born in Henningsvær”

ROAD 815

To discover the island of Vestvågøy, you have to take the road 815 instead of the E10, more sinuous but more charming and less used. We have travelled it in both directions but each time with very bad weather. To discover it, you will have to come to Lofoten.

Haukland & Utakleiv BEACHES

Here are two beautiful beaches on the north coast of the island of Vestvågøy... apart from the freezing temperature and the wind to decorate an ox... one could almost believe to be in the Caribbean... the water is turquoise, the sand white and so fine! A nice place for a walk, besides a walk connects the 2 beaches by the coast, count 4 kilometres of walk. Uttakleiv is, it seems, one of the most famous spots to enjoy the northern lights in winter or to admire the midnight sun in summer. Personally we preferred Haukland with its perfect sandy crescent.

Where to stay | WHERE TO eat in North Lofoten

KABELVÅG
Nyvågar Rorbuhotell is our first accommodation in Lofoten for 3 nights. Our rorbu, cosy as we want it to be, brings us comfort and warmth, with a view on the sea. A nice address outside the village centre. Don't forget to book a table at their restaurant Lorchstua.

HENNINGVAER
With a warm and friendly welcome, head to Fiskekrogen or a delicious fish soup overlooking the central village canal. Also in the centre of the village, if you need to warm up, make a stop at Kafé Lysstoperiet, for a good coffee and a lemon pie.

SVOLVAER
For a good evening meal, go to the chic Børsen Spiseri or the intimate Anker Bygge, two very good restaurants in the heart of the Lofoten capital. For our last night, after our stay in the south, we spent a night at Scandic Svolvær, we only recommend this address for a one night stay, as it is convenient to the city centre but without any charm.

-> Reine [ 3 NIGHTS ]

After 3 days in the northern part of the archipelago, we set off to the southern part of the archipelago, where we discovered the most famous villages and roads. During these 3 days around Reine we experienced all the "bad" weather possible with 2 timid rays of sun. The first day is punctuated by rain, the landscape is green and the summits still covered with snow. The second day we had a fine hail that whipped our face because the wind was strong. The last day, the snow is back and we finally discover the landscape under a nice white layer.

NusfJord

We leave the island of Vestvåg and drive to Flakstadøya. About 6 kilometres south of the E10, a small, steep road leads to the UNESCO World Heritage village of Nusfjord. Even though it is a very touristy place, it is a good stop on a road trip. Mostly bustling in the summer, in winter Nusfjord turns into a slow town. The horseshoe-shaped wooden pier is surrounded by dozens of yellow and red huts.

A stop at Nusfjord Landhandel, a shop and café in the heart of the town, is a must. The setting is beautiful, with a superb view of the sea and delicious cinnamon rolls.

Hamnøy

This village is probably one of the most photographed in the Lofoten Islands. In itself, not much to visit but an exceptional panorama in all weathers from the Hamnoy bridge with a view on the rorbus on stilts on the side of the rocks with the cliffs in background. Beware however of the strong wind on the bridge... it's moving!

SakrisøY

Sakrisøy is a small village with a yellow house on an island at the entrance to the Reinefjorden, surrounded by two bridges. Stop here to enjoy the view of the mountains. There are some photo spots not to be missed. If the terrain allows it, and you have crampons in case of snow, you can climb up to Olenilsoya Fort on the Sakrisoy heights.

Right next to the Anitas Seafood restaurant is a yellow house with a distinctive pointed mountain in the background. This rorbu is available for rent and is called the Olstind in Sakrisøy. With the view it offers from the inside, needless to say, it is very busy. Booking several months in advance is essential.

Reine

Reine is one of the most famous villages in the archipelago. Its geographical location contributes to its charm as it is situated on a peninsula, surrounded by sea, islands and mountains. Before leaving the E10 to reach Reine, one can enjoy a beautiful view of its centre and the surrounding mountains from the Reine Foto Postal car park. The village is slightly larger than the others, making it a good base for accommodation and sightseeing. There are cafes, restaurants, supermarkets and a petrol station.

SØrvågen & TIND

Sørvågen and Tind are located a little further south, towards the village of Å. The setting is cute and much less touristy than in Å.

Å

Sometimes also called Å i Lofoten (which is its old name), the village called Å, which is pronounced "Ô", is the southernmost in the archipelago. It marks the end of the E10 road that runs through the entire archipelago. The village is also known for its fishing museum and the Stockfish museum, where you can learn about old-fashioned fishing methods. To park, you have to go through the tunnel, there is a large car park just after. Unfortunately, we walked through it in the pouring rain... Our cameras did not come out of our bags...

On the way back...

On our way back north we stopped often, as the snow had finally fallen and the landscape changed from green to stormy white.

SELFJORDEN

Between Fredvang and Hamnøy, Selfjorden is beautiful because it is surrounded by mountains and is very tight. Park on the side of the road and wait for a small boat to pass by...

Fredvang Bridges

Despite a very strong wind, our drone nicknamed "Viking The Warrior" managed to capture the view of the 2 bridges of Fredvang.

Ramberg & Flakstad

Continuing up the E10 road in the archipelago, stops should be made at Ramberg and Flakstad. Both municipalities are close to white sandy beaches. In Ramberg, we discover on its beach, the Rambergstranda, a red fishing hut, particularly photogenic. It is a well-known photo spot in the Lofoten Islands.

Another hut, much less touristy, is located between Ramberg and Flakstad. A small path leads off the E10 road and in a few minutes you are facing the raging sea in a small hut with a table, a mat and fire-making equipment... just a few logs missing.

The beach at Flakstad, surrounded by mountains, is called Skagsanden. Nearby is a church, the Flakstad Kirke, all red and in an impressive setting.

where to stay | where to eat in South Lofoten

REINE
Reine Rorbuer is the little cocoon where we stayed for 3 nights in a traditional red fisherman's house in the middle of the steep peaks and by the sea. This cosy little cottage, all made of wood, allowed us to roam around and also to be protected from the weather while being in the centre of the various points of interest. Be sure to book a table at their restaurant Gammelbua with a "fireside" atmosphere. And if you want to enjoy a good slice of carrot cake for your 4 hours, go to the Kaffebar Bringen in the heart of the village.

SAKRISØY
At Anitas Seafood, taste their famous fishburgers filled with shrimps, salmon and cod and browse their shop with products made in Sakrisøy: smoked salmon and trout with juniper, marinated salmon, smoked halibut, stockfish, dried and salted cod, caviar...

HAMNØY
For Italian-Norwegian cuisine, head to Gadus Nortic Trattoria in a cosy atmosphere with a view of the chef.

SØRVÅGEN
Maren Anna restaurant is located in the harbour of Sørvågen, book a table for a very good cod dish.

RAMBERG
Kafe Friisgarden is a good place to recharge your batteries after braving the cold of the Ramberg and Flakstad beaches with a good waffle and a good coffee!

-> SvolvAER [ 1 Night ]

Here we are back in the north after a week of wandering, with all this beautiful snow and finally a ray of sunshine, we don't want to leave again... We will still enjoy our 2h30 drive to the airport to take in the sights. To see our good addresses, go back to the chapter "where to stay | where to eat in North Lofoten".

• tonight the catch of the day is… Cod •

-> The essentials in your suitcase

For a trip to Lofoten in winter, you need to be prepared for all kinds of weather, from sun to blizzard to rain.

neck warmer, hat and gloves
waterproof and warm snow boots
hand and foot warmers
warm clothing
waterproof and windproof jacket and trousers
thermos with a good hot tea
light shoe crampons that are easy to carry because they can really slip
headlamp
of course your camera

Here is the reference of the road map, even if there are not many roads, it is always a pleasure for us to travel with a road map and plan each evening the itinerary of the next day.

For the guidebook it is obviously the Lonely Planet Norway guidebook that we took with us (even if honestly the part on Lofoten deserves a little more details).